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Ok guys nothing wrong with crank rods or bearings what so ever no scratches no nothing (yea) so my problem is this what in the heck would make a noise similar to a rod bearing that would come and go like in my video now that I know it's ok I'm putting it back together but what about the metal flakes ? The flakes are small but not as small as I would expect. I'm going to plastiguage the barings again just to be sure. I'm at a loss I have no idea what this could be "I need help"
Did you run that long enough to warm it up? I was thinking Piston SlapOriginally Posted by dmuney
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
Yes today i did right after i reassembled it. I found absolutely nothing wrong inside the motor the bearings looked like they were never installed the squish with plastigage was perfect. After starting it up that sound was horrible but i kept running it anyways. I then decided to see what was up so i rev'ed it up and rev'ed it hard and no noise so i just played with the throttle a little bit for a few minutes and no knocking noise at all so i let it idle again and bam the knocking noise was back, rev'ed it up and it was gone again. So my conclusion is remove transmission and replace a broken flexplate that i must have overlooked.
ok motor checks out good now to remove the transmission and replace a broken flexplate
Funny thing is when i fired it up the very first time after rebuilding it and i told my wife about the noise she said whatever your thinking is wrong with it that it wouldn't be the problem and that if i removed the oil pan i would find everything to be perfect and she was right. so today after i got it tore apart and found nothing wrong i told her and she said i told you so, so I asked her what was wrong with the truck then and she asked me is there anything else that might make that noise so i named off several things that i thought cold cause it and she said you know i tried to tell you before are you going to listen to me this time i said sure why not she said its the flexplate that is the problem i said yea right and went back to work and reassembled the engine only to find out she was correct again. now the strange and wierd thing is she has never seen the truck or parts to it sense before i took it apart and knows nothing about cars or engines but yet she was 100%correct every step of the way i think ill listen to her more often for sure now.
What happened with the oil pressure?
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
ok so let me tell you about my nightmare weekend it started with pulling the oil pan and all 6 rod caps to inspect the bearings and found everything to be in perfect shape. next i decided to replace the flexplate and when installing the trans i couldn't spin the torque converter i thought oh **** so i pulled the transmission again only to find out the torque converter was a super tight fit into the flexplate. so after removing the transmission twice i decided to run the motor and try to listen for the knocking sound. i determined it was coming from the front of the motor so off comes the timing cover for inspection and i found nothing wrong. so i said what the heck and i drove the truck home at midnight. so i woke up this morning started the truck and listened some more and it sounded like it was coming from the back of the engine, so i decided to watch some youtube videos and i came across one that pretty much solves my nightmare. now i just need to get that banjo bolt with the check valve installed in the back of the cylinder head at the fuel return line this banjo keeps a small amount of pressure in the return fuel circuit to minimize harmonics and vibrations from the pulses of high pressure fuel being returned by the injector so every time and injector fire it bleeds off some HP fuel and i believe that is what may be causing my noise fingers crossed
@Polaraco the oil problem was i added a 3 shims to the oil pressure relief valve so i removed the shims and oil pressure is normal again i guess i didn't notice with the shims installed it had 125 psi of oil pressure at startup now i have 65 at startup and 50 psi warm at idle
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Ok well everybody problem solved. Its' fixed without noise heck i can barely even hear it running. i'm glad that's over thank you all for your help.
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Awesome!
2015 Black Laramie CCSB 3500 SRW. Thuren Leveled With Fox 2.0 Shocks. Ride Rite Rear Air Bags With Wireless Airlift Onboard Air. 35" Toyos. All The Options Minus The Soot Cookers. RaceMe Ultra.
Sure! Finish the job and abandon us. Leaving us up in the air
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
No not I haven't abandoned ship. just been super busy around the home spring cleaning if you will. Also trying to finish up a few projects I've had in the works. Shoot I finished 1 yesterday now I can use the winch on the front or the back looks like a receiver mount for the trailer is next. And a custom gauge pod for the A-pillar is in the works as I type this message.
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