With everything I got in my signature what headstuds would you recommend? Also, what other upgrades would you recommend to make the truck bullet proof with the higher horsepower tunes. In what order would you do them? Thank you!
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With everything I got in my signature what headstuds would you recommend? Also, what other upgrades would you recommend to make the truck bullet proof with the higher horsepower tunes. In what order would you do them? Thank you!
2015 3500 Cummins w/ aisin, Kore leveling kit, bilstien 5100 shocks, 35x12.5r20 duratracs, fuel kleavers, buschwacker max coverage flares, 40" curved rough country light bar in bumper, putco silver lux led headlights, air lift rear air bags wirelessONE with onboard air, carli track bar, carli lower steering stabalizer, synergy steering box brace, afe cold air intake, raceme ultra with warp tuning by double r diesel, 5" TBE flo pro, full pusher intake, fass 150.
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APR headstuds.
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ARP
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ARP no questions
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ARP 625 is the number from everything I have seen and read
2012 Cummins Ram 6.7L MM3 tuner full 5" Flo Pro TBE Exhaust LWBCC 4x4 Mag Hytec Double Deep Transmission Pan , Mag Hytec Rear Diff Cover
Airlift part # 57595 7500lbs airbags ,Nitto Ridge Grapplers 35/12.50/20 on XD 829 Big Hoss ll Satin Black Machined Dark Tint 20 x 9 with + 18 offset rims,MM3 Tuner With full Custom Tunes by Ray at DRD , Autometer A13117 Pillar Pod , Edge 98004 mount adapter , Mag Hytec front diff cover, SuperNova V4 LED Headlight Bulbs
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Agree from what I have read. There are 2 ARP studs for our trucks. The 625 and a less expensive set. The 625 from what I understand can be installed and torqued with ARP lube and assembled completely. The other studs have to get installed, heat cycled and re torqued. I'd think the labor costs would offset the higher priced 625. I was just reading that the rocker pedestals have to milled for clearance on the 625s now? Anyone confirm? So now you have a day or 2 to have them milled while truck sits in pieces?Originally Posted by HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN
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2013 Laramie 2500 CC. Warp tuning on RaceMe. 2 inch level w/35s.
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ARP 625s. End of discussion. @Double R Diesel can get you hooked up.
425s are cheaper, but require repeat retorquing. Best to drop the cash up front for the 625s. But keep in mind, studs are really only a necessity if you are running higher than stock boost. And even then, if you switch to a non-VGT turbo and get that drive pressure closer to 1:1 you're even better off.
So if you are planning on throwing 60+ psi of boost through a big charger (or 35+ thru a VGT) this should be top of your list. If you are just daily driving the truck with some added power, it might not be a worthy investment. Just my .02 on the matter. (I daily drive a 120HP WARP tune without studs, and have for the last 30,000 miles; no leaks or issues yet)
2021 3500 Mega HO DRW
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Ya I have been driving with the 120hp sence I got it but the 200 and 150hp are really enticing and I'm not good at behaving hahah. I guess I just want to bulletproof whatever I need so I don't end up with my engine and tranny laying on the highway in pieces LOL. Just not sure what direction or what to start with. Thanks for everyone's quick replys though!
2015 3500 Cummins w/ aisin, Kore leveling kit, bilstien 5100 shocks, 35x12.5r20 duratracs, fuel kleavers, buschwacker max coverage flares, 40" curved rough country light bar in bumper, putco silver lux led headlights, air lift rear air bags wirelessONE with onboard air, carli track bar, carli lower steering stabalizer, synergy steering box brace, afe cold air intake, raceme ultra with warp tuning by double r diesel, 5" TBE flo pro, full pusher intake, fass 150.
You won't have overboosting issues with Ray's tuning, I've had my truck to the floor and it tops out at 32.71psi according to the Ultra (my alarm is set for 32psi). With box tuning I was seeing 36-37psi, and other members were seeing as high as 40.....thats where the problems start. Studs are a good thing to do just because of the nature of the head design of the 6.7L but for most people, it's not really necessary. Since you have the AISIN transmission, I strongly encourage you to keep your right foot in check; that transmission might be stronger than the 68, but it does not handle above-stock power very well.
I can only provide insight from my experiences, but I would save the $1200 you would spend on studs and put it towards a built transmission. (A catastrophic, unannounced transmission failure is a financial burden that most people generally aren't prepared for, when you're talking 7-10 grand for a replacement) However, you wouldn't be doing any harm by putting the studs in, and you would be prepared for any future upgrades on the turbo side.
2021 3500 Mega HO DRW
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I think in going to upgrade my transmission first. Heads studs I think would make me beat on it more. I just run a 12 valve 30 HP tune or a 30 HP tow tune made from Ray. I hardly ever go over 3/4 throttle position. That's where I set the alarm and I see maybe 25lb of boost. I say Ray's tunes are a safe bet unless your trying to break something.
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