Revmax valve body and tq converter for 68RFE stage 4 vs stage 5

[Czimmerman275]

I wanna hear people’s thoughts on running this tq converter what are the major differences between the stage 4 and stage 5 as well as the stock stall and 15 blade vs 17 blade low stall what the difference and what does each drive/feel like I don’t tow anything just looking for better driveability and protect the transmission for future power gains


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[HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN]

Clayton from DDP sells RevMax Transmissions and parts he will be able to answer you and Ray from DRD has also dealt with RevMax

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[WyomingHunter]

I've been reading on this too for a bit. The RevMax product is by all accounts an excellent product. The question I am working on is weather it's worthwhile to buy a torque converter and valve body or save up and go right for a 700 series transmission. I read somebody's analogy of putting that extra power to a stock 68RFE is akin to putting a heavy impact on a bolt. May be enough power to snap that bolt. Problems for me are, that's a major price difference and my stock transmission is currently in really good shape. So I continue researching and maybe somebody will comment in your thread to help.

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[Czimmerman275]

I've been reading on this too for a bit. The RevMax product is by all accounts an excellent product. The question I am working on is weather it's worthwhile to buy a torque converter and valve body or save up and go right for a 700 series transmission. I read somebody's analogy of putting that extra power to a stock 68RFE is akin to putting a heavy impact on a bolt. May be enough power to snap that bolt. Problems for me are, that's a major price difference and my stock transmission is currently in really good shape. So I continue researching and maybe somebody will comment in your thread to help.

That is essentially the same issue I am having and wondering if anyone has this current setup and how it’s working or is it only a temporary fix to an unavoidable problem or not I am
Looking to do the 2nd gen swap from H&S that I saw in Rays video of his G56 truck I don’t race or tow at all it’s a “toy” truck and a daily driver I don’t mind getting after it but never from a dead stop no burnouts or boosted launches I read somewhere the guys from draconian diesel saying a valve body and converter is going a long way to keeping these transmissions from breaking but wanted some first hand experience if anyone has it


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[DDP]

Revmax is definitely a great product. Here is some info for you to ponder on whether or not to get a full built one or to do parts. Although you are upgrading parts, depending on hp goal range it might be recommended to go with a built one for your needs.



stage 5 triple disc billet converters are designed for those who have heavily modified engines or for those that tow heavy weights


stage 4 multi disc billet converters are designed for those who mildly modified engines, tow heavy weights or don’t want the firm shifting that comes with a Stage 5 triple disc converter

15 Blade Stock Stall: The most versatile converter offered. It is loose enough to spool most turbos, in most elevations and climates, while maximizing low end grunt and keeping the torque converter tight enough when the turbo lights and horsepower is being made. This converter should go in trucks that TOW and WORK HARD. Approximately 200-400 RPM lower than a stock converter.

17 Blade Stock Stall: Used for light towing. This converter stall is equivalent to a STOCK converter stall.

This converter works well with: •2nd generation dodges with 60-62mm turbos @ 0 to 4,000 foot elevation •3rd generation dodges with 63-71mm turbos •0 to 4,000 foot elevation with 67-71mm turbos •0 to 11,000 foot elevation on 63-66mm turbos


When the tightest converter is needed. Not many uses in 1994 to early 2007 dodges. This converter is perfect for lowering stall speed and maximizing torque output in 2007.5+ dodges with a 68RFE transmission. This converter is approximately 600 to 1,000 RPM lower than stock.
This converter works well with: •Stock to 57mm turbos in 1989-1993 dodges with no lockup •works very well with 6.7 Cummins in front of 68RFE transmissions •turbos from stock to 64mm •the low first gear in the 68RFE and the added displacement from the 6.7 help light turbos very well

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[Czimmerman275]

Revmax is definitely a great product. Here is some info for you to ponder on whether or not to get a full built one or to do parts. Although you are upgrading parts, depending on hp goal range it might be recommended to go with a built one for your needs.



stage 5 triple disc billet converters are designed for those who have heavily modified engines or for those that tow heavy weights


stage 4 multi disc billet converters are designed for those who mildly modified engines, tow heavy weights or don’t want the firm shifting that comes with a Stage 5 triple disc converter

15 Blade Stock Stall: The most versatile converter offered. It is loose enough to spool most turbos, in most elevations and climates, while maximizing low end grunt and keeping the torque converter tight enough when the turbo lights and horsepower is being made. This converter should go in trucks that TOW and WORK HARD. Approximately 200-400 RPM lower than a stock converter.

17 Blade Stock Stall: Used for light towing. This converter stall is equivalent to a STOCK converter stall.

This converter works well with: •2nd generation dodges with 60-62mm turbos @ 0 to 4,000 foot elevation •3rd generation dodges with 63-71mm turbos •0 to 4,000 foot elevation with 67-71mm turbos •0 to 11,000 foot elevation on 63-66mm turbos


When the tightest converter is needed. Not many uses in 1994 to early 2007 dodges. This converter is perfect for lowering stall speed and maximizing torque output in 2007.5+ dodges with a 68RFE transmission. This converter is approximately 600 to 1,000 RPM lower than stock.
This converter works well with: •Stock to 57mm turbos in 1989-1993 dodges with no lockup •works very well with 6.7 Cummins in front of 68RFE transmissions •turbos from stock to 64mm •the low first gear in the 68RFE and the added displacement from the 6.7 help light turbos very well

Thank you for the reply that is a lot of good information short term power goals are H&S 2nd gen turbo sxe 69 mm turbo banks mega ram intake and grid heater delete we are about 6k elevation so mildly modified engine I would assume the stage 4 converter and rev max valve body would be what I am looking for 15 blade as well as I do not tow this is a daily driver “toy” truck long term goals will be all the appropriate fuel mods and then be upgrading to rev max 700 series that would be not for another year or so


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[DDP]

Thank you for the reply that is a lot of good information short term power goals are H&S 2nd gen turbo sxe 69 mm turbo banks mega ram intake and grid heater delete we are about 6k elevation so mildly modified engine I would assume the stage 4 converter and rev max valve body would be what I am looking for 15 blade as well as I do not tow this is a daily driver “toy” truck long term goals will be all the appropriate fuel mods and then be upgrading to rev max 700 series that would be not for another year or so


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Your welcome my friend! Ill shoot you a pm.

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[WyomingHunter]

So that still leaves me with questions. My truck is a daily driver 80% of the time with occasional play time and more concerning is the times I haul heavy loads (maybe 10-12 tons max) at 7k-9kft elevation. I'm wondering how long I can expect the stock 68RFE to take the occasional abuse with upgraded converter and valve body? Maybe I don't even need a built transmission if I upgrade now before any damage is done? I've never tried a boosted launch or hauled heavy on much of an incline, but would prefer to use my truck because the old ranch truck is on its last legs. So does anybody have real life experience with only upgrades?

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[9mgcb81]

I won't knock Revmax products as a whole. However I will say that over the last few months I've been trying to figure out a pulling/lunging while braking issue

What the truck was doing is it felt like the TC was staying locked and pulling through the brakes. I just changed my fluid again last week and decided before spending a lot of money right now since the new farm is more important at the moment. I'd try taking the Revmax spin on filter screw off and just use the plastic fitting on the Mopar filter

Filled it back up and topped off after letting fluid circulate. No more issues now that the Revmax screw is out of there

Only thing I can think of is maybe it was cut to thick and not letting the filter seat properly. And yes it did it on more than 1 filter. It did the same thing on 3 fluid changes
For me the fitting will not be going back on my truck

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[4kids2dogs&RV]

I won't knock Revmax products as a whole. However I will say that over the last few months I've been trying to figure out a pulling/lunging while braking issue

What the truck was doing is it felt like the TC was staying locked and pulling through the brakes. I just changed my fluid again last week and decided before spending a lot of money right now since the new farm is more important at the moment. I'd try taking the Revmax spin on filter screw off and just use the plastic fitting on the Mopar filter

Filled it back up and topped off after letting fluid circulate. No more issues now that the Revmax screw is out of there

Only thing I can think of is maybe it was cut to thick and not letting the filter seat properly. And yes it did it on more than 1 filter. It did the same thing on 3 fluid changes
For me the fitting will not be going back on my truck

Interesting info, I too had issues threading the filter on the Revmax fitting. Like you I just decided not to use it, guess it's a good thing I didn't.

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