Transmission Flush, or filter change and top up? 68 RFE

**ywgbandit** · 07-10-2018

My truck is a 2012 with 46K miles. I was doing a steep grade a few days ago with stop and go traffic because of an accident. My trans temp got up to 231 F for about 10 min. until I got going at speed again and locked up the torque converter. The trans temp dropped immediately. I'm not sure how frequently the transmission fluid should be changed, and if it's a filter change and top up or a complete flush? What's the popular opinion? Did I cook the transmission fluid? What kind of coin am I looking at?

0 Comment(s)

**theaaronbush** · 07-10-2018

My advice is to order a drain plug and both Mopar filters from Geno’s. Pull the pan and install the plug onto the pan and change both filters. If you want to get as much fluid out as possible, you can break the return line fitting at the transmission. I would put the rear on jack stands and once the line is broken, start the truck and put it in neutral. You should start getting oil flowing from the return line and you can run it into a drain pan or a bucket. I would have an extra person either watching the flow or to turn the engine off when the flow slows down. I wouldn’t run it completely dry but stop when the flow slows down quite a bit. I think Geno’s actually has a step by step on how to do this on their site. I don’t think it’s wise to let someone pressure the fluid out.

I forgot how many quarts you’ll need to refill it but once you get about 8 quarts back in, set the E-brake, start the engine and put the truck in neutral and add a quart at a time until you reach your desired level. Only use Mopar filter! I learned my lesson going cheap! Just don’t do it! Also get some RTV or a new pan gasket. Good luck and keep us updated.

2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

0 Comment(s)

**OverkillNeverFails** · 07-10-2018

At only 46k Miles I wouldn't flush it. If you start now with a Pan drop and filters change, then do that every 30k or so, you'll never have to flush it. Or go through the trouble of trying to pump it out. As Bush says, use Mopar filters only. And good quality ATF+4. Do not use "multi-vehicle atf".

At 231 degree's you didn't hurt the trans. Especially since it came right down when you got moving.

0 Comment(s)

**Power247** · 07-10-2018

I had mine done at about 60k. Had them change the filters and purge as @theaaronbush stated. Didn't really notice any difference shifting but it made me feel better getting it done.

Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | Custom tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310

0 Comment(s)

**HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN** · 07-10-2018

Originally Posted by ywgbandit

My truck is a 2012 with 46K miles. I was doing a steep grade a few days ago with stop and go traffic because of an accident. My trans temp got up to 231 F for about 10 min. until I got going at speed again and locked up the torque converter. The trans temp dropped immediately. I'm not sure how frequently the transmission fluid should be changed, and if it's a filter change and top up or a complete flush? What's the popular opinion? Did I cook the transmission fluid? What kind of coin am I looking at?

You should change fluid and filters roughly every 30,000 miles and only use ATF+4 trans fluid only and only use OEM or Mopar or Fleetguard Filters only you also may want to change your trans pan to a Mag Hytec Double Deep Pan if you do the trans will hold 12 qts of fluid

0 Comment(s)

**theaaronbush** · 07-10-2018

Yes!! ATF+4!!! How could I forget!? I also installed the Revmax threaded nipple for the screw-on filter.

2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

0 Comment(s)

**HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN** · 07-11-2018

Originally Posted by theaaronbush

Yes!! ATF+4!!! How could I forget!? I also installed the Revmax threaded nipple for the screw-on filter.

2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

I did to install the RevMax threaded nipple on my filter

0 Comment(s)

**ywgbandit** · 07-11-2018

Originally Posted by theaaronbush

Yes!! ATF+4!!! How could I forget!? I also installed the Revmax threaded nipple for the screw-on filter.

2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

You wouldn't happen to know the part number of the Revmax threaded nipple and where you got it from would you?

0 Comment(s)