BDS 8in long arm issues

[Stags]

Has anyone else installed this kit? I'm having major issues with mine and now I am down my money maker. First of all the instructions are absolute rubbish, I didn't see anything about having to index the t case until after I already had the arms on and now the frame crush nuts that they supply for the long arm bracket just spin when I try to take them out. I can't install my index ring nor can I move any further. I have nothing but bad things to say about this company so far. Anyone have ideas on how to fix this?


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[brandonjansen]

I have installed this kit and I don't think there are any issues with the instructions at all. The first page of the instructions tells you to look at the separate instructions for the transfer case indexing ring. If you missed that it's your fault, not BDS's.

What have you tried to use tool wise to remove bolts that are going into the rivnuts? I would try an impact if you haven't already done so. But what you really need is to get pressure onto the bolt as it comes out. I'd try prying a large flat head screw driver behind the bolt as you turn it out to try to keep pressure on the rivnut.

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[Stags]

I have installed this kit and I don't think there are any issues with the instructions at all. The first page of the instructions tells you to look at the separate instructions for the transfer case indexing ring. If you missed that it's your fault, not BDS's.

What have you tried to use tool wise to remove bolts that are going into the rivnuts? I would try an impact if you haven't already done so. But what you really need is to get pressure onto the bolt as it comes out. I'd try prying a large flat head screw driver behind the bolt as you turn it out to try to keep pressure on the rivnut.

You're right it's not their fault but I do believe they should make it a little more known to do that first. I have built long travel trucks from scratch with no instructions but I seem to find these instructions poor.

So far an impact and a chisel with no luck. The bolt won't back out enough to get much behind it, it won't loosen or tighten. My second question is how to fix this issue once I get the rivetnuts out.


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[brandonjansen]

Fair enough... that may be true. But it's also your responsibility to read through everything and know what you're getting into. If you knew that you needed to install the transfer case indexing ring you probably should have known that you'd need to drop the cross member to do. But no sense arguing about that... obviously we're past that point.

How many bolts are you having this issue with? Can you get something behind the entire bracket itself to pry that slightly forward to put pressure on the bolt? Or even pry the bottom of it out so the top puts pressure onto the rivnut to try to hold it? (might be a two man job to make that happen).
Once you get the bolts out and the bracket off I'd recommend tack welding the rivnuts to the frame to stop them from spinning. That's what I did to avoid having the issue you're facing.

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[Stags]

Fair enough... that may be true. But it's also your responsibility to read through everything and know what you're getting into. If you knew that you needed to install the transfer case indexing ring you probably should have known that you'd need to drop the cross member to do. But no sense arguing about that... obviously we're past that point.

How many bolts are you having this issue with? Can you get something behind the entire bracket itself to pry that slightly forward to put pressure on the bolt? Or even pry the bottom of it out so the top puts pressure onto the rivnut to try to hold it? (might be a two man job to make that happen).
Once you get the bolts out and the bracket off I'd recommend tack welding the rivnuts to the frame to stop them from spinning. That's what I did to avoid having the issue you're facing.

So far the three on the passenger side. Haven't yet to try the driver side, I had to walk away from it for a little. I have a couple wedges I will try and use. That's a good idea, did you just mig it? I only have gas for my tig so I will give that a shot. I have used these rivetnuts before on my old Ford with no problem so it frustrates me why it had to happen on my daily driver.


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[brandonjansen]

Wedges would work good to hammer in there a bit if you can. Hopefully that will do the trick.

Yeah I just used a mig welder and I think I put two tacks on each rivnut if I remember right; one on each side of it. Obviously had to grind the paint off the frame to do it and then just painted over everything afterwards to make sure it was sealed up. Just remember to disconnect both batteries when you weld it. I've heard of guys frying computers when welding with the batteries hooked up.

They're a pain in the *** for sure. I try to avoid anything with rivnuts where I can but unfortunately they're a necessary evil at times.

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[Stags]

Wedges would work good to hammer in there a bit if you can. Hopefully that will do the trick.

Yeah I just used a mig welder and I think I put two tacks on each rivnut if I remember right; one on each side of it. Obviously had to grind the paint off the frame to do it and then just painted over everything afterwards to make sure it was sealed up. Just remember to disconnect both batteries when you weld it. I've heard of guys frying computers when welding with the batteries hooked up.

They're a pain in the *** for sure. I try to avoid anything with rivnuts where I can but unfortunately they're a necessary evil at times.

I will give it a go. I have always wondered if that was true or not, I have heard people say to disconnect batteries and I have known fabricators who said it's a myth. If I'm in a rush or frustrated I typically don't disconnect it and haven't had issues yet but it only takes one time. Thank you for your insight sir I'm going to give it a shot right now.


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[Stags]

Any one have an idea what to do here? They don't say you need a new drag link but I can't figure out how I'm supposed to make this work. The stock drag link binds way before the pitman arm they supply.






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