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Thread: Drive pressure on raceme ultra?

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    Basic Member Matthew77515's Avatar

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    Drive pressure on raceme ultra?

    I'm new to deleting and I just installed the race me ultra with a cat/DPF delete pipe on my 2012 ram 2500 and I was told the 2 pressures to watch so u don't blow a HG is the boost and drive pressure so Can the raceme ultra monitor the drive pressure if so which gauge setting is it?


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    DRD's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew77515 View Post
    I'm new to deleting and I just installed the race me ultra with a cat/DPF delete pipe on my 2012 ram 2500 and I was told the 2 pressures to watch so u don't blow a HG is the boost and drive pressure so Can the raceme ultra monitor the drive pressure if so which gauge setting is it?
    You can't monitor the drive pressure with Ultra unfortunately. You must install a manual gauge to read it. I've got an exhaust back pressure/drive pressure gauge installed on our 2012 as well as running the Ultra. Drive and boost pressures are looking about as good as you can ask for the Ultra's tuning...considering the restrictive nature of the stock VGT. You should not have to worrying about the boost and drive pressure blowing a head gasket. The main thing is set the injection timing up correctly. Never use the 35* setting. Use the 23* setting for power the 120HP or lower durations. Use the 29* setting for 120HP or higher duration. The 120HP mark can use either 23* or 29*...but the 23* setting is a safer bet here.

    Ray
    Double R Diesel, LLC
    www.doublerdiesel.com
    info@doublerdiesel.com

    The Cummins Whisperer! John 3:16, Romans 10:9-10...Tuning for the Heart and Soul.


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    Basic Member Matthew77515's Avatar

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    Thank you double r diesel!


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    Fulldrawassassin's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Double R Diesel View Post
    You can't monitor the drive pressure with Ultra unfortunately. You must install a manual gauge to read it. I've got an exhaust back pressure/drive pressure gauge installed on our 2012 as well as running the Ultra. Drive and boost pressures are looking about as good as you can ask for the Ultra's tuning...considering the restrictive nature of the stock VGT. You should not have to worrying about the boost and drive pressure blowing a head gasket. The main thing is set the injection timing up correctly. Never use the 35* setting. Use the 23* setting for power the 120HP or lower durations. Use the 29* setting for 120HP or higher duration. The 120HP mark can use either 23* or 29*...but the 23* setting is a safer bet here.

    Ray
    Double R Diesel, LLC
    www.doublerdiesel.com
    info@doublerdiesel.com
    I tried the 200 hp duration with 35+ timing and used 3/4 throttle from 60-90 mph. It was impressive with only 32.9 boost psi. Did that hurt my truck? I did it one time and now that I read what you said I'm never gonna run 35+ again. I baby my truck 99% of the time. If you head stud can you then run higher timing?


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    DRD's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fulldrawassassin View Post
    I tried the 200 hp duration with 35+ timing and used 3/4 throttle from 60-90 mph. It was impressive with only 32.9 boost psi. Did that hurt my truck? I did it one time and now that I read what you said I'm never gonna run 35+ again. I baby my truck 99% of the time. If you head stud can you then run higher timing?
    You didn't hurt anything most likely cause you didn't hit full load at 3/4 throttle.

    Even with head studs, I'd never turn up the timing that high. Sure you can squeeze a few extra ponies on the dyno that way, but that much timing is recipe for trouble in my opinion on a stock 6.7.

    Ray
    Double R Diesel, LLC
    www.doublerdiesel.com
    info@doublerdiesel.com

    The Cummins Whisperer! John 3:16, Romans 10:9-10...Tuning for the Heart and Soul.


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  9. Top Of Page | #6
    Fulldrawassassin's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Double R Diesel View Post
    You didn't hurt anything most likely cause you didn't hit full load at 3/4 throttle.

    Even with head studs, I'd never turn up the timing that high. Sure you can squeeze a few extra ponies on the dyno that way, but that much timing is recipe for trouble in my opinion on a stock 6.7.

    Ray
    Double R Diesel, LLC
    www.doublerdiesel.com
    info@doublerdiesel.com
    Awesome! I know I'm being paranoid due to lack of experience and knowledge. I appreciate the help! I want to know what would be safe for me to run and how I can drive with it without putting myself at risk for problems. 150 hp and 29+ felt good and my motor seemed to run better with less knocking or rattling. What is that noise anyways? Is it bad? At that setting, assuming the truck is fully warmed up can I get on it hard? Or is there a setting I should run and be able to? Is it safer or better to run 120 hp at 23+ timing or is 150 hp 29+ good? Maybe 150 hp at 23+ timing? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just new and excited but scared of the things I don't know. Any advice is greatly appreciated. I can do 625 headstuds but would rather not unless needed. As far as the tranny goes I hope we get tuning soon and at least an aftermarket built Aisin if I ever need it.


  10. Top Of Page | #7
    Fulldrawassassin's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Double R Diesel View Post
    You didn't hurt anything most likely cause you didn't hit full load at 3/4 throttle.

    Even with head studs, I'd never turn up the timing that high. Sure you can squeeze a few extra ponies on the dyno that way, but that much timing is recipe for trouble in my opinion on a stock 6.7.

    Ray
    Double R Diesel, LLC
    www.doublerdiesel.com
    info@doublerdiesel.com
    Ray, I saw a video where you proved how the Raceme Ultra will burn rubber. What settings were you on as far as hp/timing/rail psi? Would my truck be safe to do that if I ever wanted? Also if I run 150 hp what timing and rail psi should I run with it?


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    oneshotkyle's Avatar

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    Headsteads are just an added security on a 6.7. These engines have a higher cylinder pressures and less headgasket sealing surface than the old 5.9.

    2015 laramie 3500 CCLB G56 4x4/Thuren springs/trackbar/swaybar with King's on Walker's with 37 Toyo mt's. Raceme/Arp625's/BBI 1.5's/Stainless Diesel 467.7/Airdog 165 4g/Fleece 10mm CP3/GDP grid delete and S3/Hellman VC.....Warp by double r diesel

  12. Top Of Page | #9
    Fulldrawassassin's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by oneshotkyle View Post
    Headsteads are just an added security on a 6.7. These engines have a higher cylinder pressures and less headgasket sealing surface than the old 5.9.
    10-4


  13. Top Of Page | #10
    Permanent Vacation K-Sons's Avatar

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    and you don't need 625s 425s will work fine unless your going big power


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