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Thread: 68RFE Opinions

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    68RFE Opinions

    OK guys,

    I have a 2017 2500, that I tow a 43' 5th wheel with, I drive a bit hard and regularly tow long distances.

    I'm ordering parts to do full delete, ARP 625s, ehaust and Rays tunes.

    Is it worth it to do a converter and valve body? Or just converter and separator plate kit?

    I'm currently looking at the Revmax stage 5 converter and possibly one of their high end valve body's. also, would low stall or ultra low stall be preferable


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    WE WILL STAND! IGOTACUMMINS's Avatar

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    Re: 68RFE Opinions

    We would do a Flex Plate, Valve Body and Torque Converter from RevMax.

    "The grass is greener where you water it"


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  5. Top Of Page | #3
    DDP's Avatar

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    Re: 68RFE Opinions

    Quote Originally Posted by Bulldog87 View Post
    OK guys,

    I have a 2017 2500, that I tow a 43' 5th wheel with, I drive a bit hard and regularly tow long distances.

    I'm ordering parts to do full delete, ARP 625s, ehaust and Rays tunes.

    Is it worth it to do a converter and valve body? Or just converter and separator plate kit?

    I'm currently looking at the Revmax stage 5 converter and possibly one of their high end valve body's. also, would low stall or ultra low stall be preferable
    Like stated it's always a good idea and since your there alot of guys go ahead and pick up the thermal bypass and solenoid pack as well.

    Revmax is who we like to utilize as well as randy's and suncoast. Top notch companies!

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  7. Top Of Page | #4
    TexNeck's Avatar

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    Re: 68RFE Opinions

    Quote Originally Posted by IGOTACUMMINS View Post
    We would do a Flex Plate, Valve Body and Torque Converter from RevMax.
    I agree with this and Clayton with the thermal bypass. If money allows I would do billet input shaft as well. With the new converter being more stout you have a greater chance of snapping stock input which will cost more in replacement and repairs since it will take out internal parts when it snaps

    2013 Ram 2500
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  9. Top Of Page | #5
    Daily Grinding! RamIt's Avatar

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    Re: 68RFE Opinions

    Just out of curiosity, why not just buy a RevMax transmission outright? Or am I misunderstanding your post?


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  11. Top Of Page | #6
    TexNeck's Avatar

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    Re: 68RFE Opinions

    Roughly $8400 for the 700hp trans

    about $4k for parts he is wanting - if he were to do valvebody, stage 5 converter, flex plate, and input shaft

    2013 Ram 2500
    John 3:16 - Philippians 4:13

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  13. Top Of Page | #7
    6.7 Coal Train's Avatar

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    Re: 68RFE Opinions

    Quote Originally Posted by Dude's Diesel Performance View Post
    Like stated it's always a good idea and since your there alot of guys go ahead and pick up the thermal bypass and solenoid pack as well.

    Revmax is who we like to utilize as well as randy's and suncoast. Top notch companies!
    Is thermal bypass a good upgrade in all climates? Or would it be wise to leave be in a colder regions (Wisconsin)?


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  15. Top Of Page | #8
    Daily Grinding! RamIt's Avatar

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    Re: 68RFE Opinions

    Quote Originally Posted by TexNeck View Post
    Roughly $8400 for the 700hp trans

    about $4k for parts he is wanting - if he were to do valvebody, stage 5 converter, flex plate, and input shaft
    I mean that's a valid point. Personally, I'd save the extra $4400 for the RevMax. Do it once vs. putting hard parts on what is still going to essentially be a stock transmission.
    This is, of course, entirely my opinion and the route I would go if it was my truck.


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  17. Top Of Page | #9

    Re: 68RFE Opinions

    Quote Originally Posted by RamIt View Post
    I mean that's a valid point. Personally, I'd save the extra $4400 for the RevMax. Do it once vs. putting hard parts on what is still going to essentially be a stock transmission.
    This is, of course, entirely my opinion and the route I would go if it was my truck.
    I see where you are coming from there. chances are if I never add a ridiculous amount of air and fuel the stock trans will hold up with a decent converter and enough pressure to clamp the clutches. If it does end up pooping the bed, I can always send the parts back to Revmax and have them refurbish and use on a new build or have a local transmission builder throw it together. But if that happens it will end up costing an extra grand or so when its all said and done.

    I'm really wondering if the billet Valve body is worth it for a non race application or if I should just grab the performance option they have for half the price.

    Thanks for the help guys

    I'm gonna ponder this for another day or two before I order parts.


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  19. Top Of Page | #10
    Daily Grinding! RamIt's Avatar

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    Re: 68RFE Opinions

    Quote Originally Posted by Bulldog87 View Post
    I see where you are coming from there. chances are if I never add a ridiculous amount of air and fuel the stock trans will hold up with a decent converter and enough pressure to clamp the clutches. If it does end up pooping the bed, I can always send the parts back to Revmax and have them refurbish and use on a new build or have a local transmission builder throw it together. But if that happens it will end up costing an extra grand or so when its all said and done.

    I'm really wondering if the billet Valve body is worth it for a non race application or if I should just grab the performance option they have for half the price.

    Thanks for the help guys

    I'm gonna ponder this for another day or two before I order parts.
    This would be my suggestion. Do the valve body, it'll let you get 225psi which will help those clutch packs out a ton. The thermal bypass is another good idea for keeping heat out of the transmission. And then back all of that up with a solid tow tune that can take advantage of those upgrades.

    I don't think that pulling the transmission for anything less than a RevMax swap makes sense and investing 50% of the cost of a RevMax into your OEM transmission doesn't seem like the most financially sound route either, but I'm not your financial advisor. But, that's also why I'm saying to do the VB and bypass first. See where that gets you, if you're unhappy with the performance/temps/etc then add on from there.


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