Tried to calibrate actuator, running weird now

**ThatsaCummins4ya** · 07-10-2019

Originally Posted by RamIt

Considering it's actually upgraded, and not just some snake oil. It's far more justified.

It wipes the vanes/self-testing on every key cycle, preventing soot and carbon buildup.
The actuator motor has almost twice the torque: This makes it more difficult for the vanes to freeze up and gives you faster throttle response.
The actuator was designed from the beginning to work well with EFI-live aftermarket tuners.

Do you think it will cause problems using it with my H&S?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

0 Comment(s)

**cwendel** · 07-10-2019

Not unless the tuner is your entire problem from the start.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

0 Comment(s)

**RamIt** · 07-10-2019

Originally Posted by cwendel

Not unless the tuner is your entire problem from the start.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

@Ryan Giles ^^^^^this

0 Comment(s)

**ThatsaCummins4ya** · 07-10-2019

Originally Posted by cwendel

Not unless the tuner is your entire problem from the start.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

I don’t think its the tuner cuz It drove just fine before except the exhaust brake felt like it wasn’t slowing me down as much as it should.

It wasn’t until we messed with the actuator and moved the small black gear on the outer component so that now it acts like it doesn’t want to build boost and only gets up to 14-16psi when I’m accelerating on the highway pretty hard.

I can put the pedal to the floor and that’s still the most boost I get, blows more black smoke than usual. Feels like it’s being held back is the only way I can describe it. I don’t have much experience with diesels.

Also noticed some debris on on that same gear. Tried to clean as much off as I could.

One time when I was driving it, it was t building boost and all the sudden it was like it broke loose and all the boost came at once. Still only 16psi but maybe it’s getting stuck somewhere?

Do you think it’s okay to drive or should I not drive it until I get the proper scan tool to see if it will self calibrate successfully?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

0 Comment(s)

**RamIt** · 07-10-2019

Originally Posted by Ryan Giles

I don’t think its the tuner cuz It drove just fine before except the exhaust brake felt like it wasn’t slowing me down as much as it should.

It wasn’t until we messed with the actuator and moved the small black gear on the outer component so that now it acts like it doesn’t want to build boost and only gets up to 14-16psi when I’m accelerating on the highway pretty hard.

I can put the pedal to the floor and that’s still the most boost I get, blows more black smoke than usual. Feels like it’s being held back is the only way I can describe it. I don’t have much experience with diesels.

Also noticed some debris on on that same gear. Tried to clean as much off as I could.

One time when I was driving it, it was t building boost and all the sudden it was like it broke loose and all the boost came at once. Still only 16psi but maybe it’s getting stuck somewhere?

Do you think it’s okay to drive or should I not drive it until I get the proper scan tool to see if it will self calibrate successfully?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/v...tion-procedure
https://www.justanswer.com/medium-an...eman-does.html
https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2...libration.html
https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/0...bration-2.html

The internet says you need the Cummins INSITE, WiTech, Maximus 2.0, or an Arduino + coding knowledge in order to perform the calibration.

This item is NOT intended to be end-user serviceable under most circumstances.

I would advise you take your truck to either a dealership or a Cummins service center and have the calibration done professionally unless you are in possession of the aforementioned scantools/device & knowledge.

0 Comment(s)

**cwendel** · 07-10-2019

Park the truck so that you dont burn something up right now. The actuator is not calibrated correctly and is not allowing the turbo to work correctly, that is why you have low boost and major lag.

Once you get the Alfaobd and the interface, calibrate the actuator with it off the turbo. Stepper motors should not need to worry about the location but I bet the ram system sets the motor to a specific step and then uses that to determine the limits of motion.

Better design would to have had the motor just learn the limits of motion bases on amp draw, but what the bhell.

At least your motor does not have multiple sensors errors and a stuck thermostat like mine.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

0 Comment(s)

**cwendel** · 07-10-2019

I would also go through the re-calibration using the stock tune encase the h&s tune was the real source of the original low boost.

Should also use the stock tune encase the h&s just modifies values it gets instead of having different fuel maps.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

0 Comment(s)

**ThatsaCummins4ya** · 07-10-2019

Originally Posted by cwendel

Park the truck so that you dont burn something up right now. The actuator is not calibrated correctly and is not allowing the turbo to work correctly, that is why you have low boost and major lag.

Once you get the Alfaobd and the interface, calibrate the actuator with it off the turbo. Stepper motors should not need to worry about the location but I bet the ram system sets the motor to a specific step and then uses that to determine the limits of motion.

Better design would to have had the motor just learn the limits of motion bases on amp draw, but what the bhell.

At least your motor does not have multiple sensors errors and a stuck thermostat like mine.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

What are the stepper motors you’re referring to?

Only thing I worry about with the dealership is I heard that it needs to be set back to stock OEM tune before you can do the calibration. I could do that for them when I got there but isn’t it bad to drive it, even just around their shop, when it doesn’t have the tunes for the deletes. I’m afraid they are gonna drive it like that and not know how to reinstall the tune or something.

Will that mess something up?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

0 Comment(s)

**Polaraco** · 07-10-2019

Originally Posted by Ryan Giles

What are the stepper motors you’re referring to?

Only thing I worry about with the dealership is I heard that it needs to be set back to stock OEM tune before you can do the calibration. I could do that for them when I got there but isn’t it bad to drive it, even just around their shop, when it doesn’t have the tunes for the deletes. I’m afraid they are gonna drive it like that and not know how to reinstall the tune or something.

Will that mess something up?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope. Don't worry about any of the dealer. They are not supposed to abuse your truck. So it's a bit sluggish. . . .

A stepper Motor can be as small as a penny diameter to a coffee can. It's made with a position sensor that records RPM to down to .0001% rotation. A controller reads parameters and then tells the stepper to turn X times or %. It's hard for me to explain. Steppers can also just plan motor. They spin super fast and geared down to a desired RPM. The result is a great deal of torque. I have one here, it's just a motor, geared to 5 RPM. 240 Ft Lb's of shaft torque.

I'm not sure how the calibration is stored. I'm pretty sure that would be a hot feature. Meaning it's stored in conventual memory. That's why I suggested pulling the fuse on the ECU. It won't have any effect on the tuning. Worst case, you'd have to reload.

0 Comment(s)

**cwendel** · 07-10-2019

A stepper motor just has more wires that are used to not only turn the motor but determine how far it turned. All of the actuators use them because of the ability to have better control without having to use external limit stops.

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

0 Comment(s)