What do you guys recommend the first upgrade to my 68RFE be? Just so I don’t have to worry about anything breaking if I’m running the 200hp tune on the MM3? TIA
What do you guys recommend the first upgrade to my 68RFE be? Just so I don’t have to worry about anything breaking if I’m running the 200hp tune on the MM3? TIA
What year truck and how many miles are on it?
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2018 Ram 2500 4x4 G56
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I would recommend not running that tune.
Your asking for trouble if its not a full built trans.
Stock power if towing.
I wouldn't run the 200hp tune.
You could start by upgrading the valve body and converter.
Remember though, fixing these week points will put more line pressure and torque through to the other week links in the transmission.
I've been running the 120hp tune on my truck with the stock 68RFE for 70,000 miles with no issues. If you want to be 100% confident in a transmission without breaking anything then your probably going to need a complete built 68RFE. Do you already have head studs?
https://revmaxconverters.com/product...-transmission/
2017 RAM 2500 Big Horn sport appearance package, Auto Level Rear Suspension, MM3 "switch" Fully deleted - tuned by DRD, Fleece Cheetah, Airaid Jr. CAI, 3.5" Banks Monster intake horn, Pusher Boost Tubes, 5" TBE with a Flo~Pro Twister muffler, *** EGR disappear kit, Black Market Performance CAT fuel filter and water separator, Black Market Performance fuel heater, Black Market Performance head studs, AFE deep trans pan, Revmax trans cooler bypass, Revmax HD Valve Body, DPC Low stall converter with billet flywheel, AFE pro series rear diff cover, Amsoil throughout provided by mcsynthetics.myamsoil.com
Ray @DRD had a video that discussed this topic, a while back. I think you can still find it on the member's area of his website. They've all been stripped from YouTube for... reasons.
I'd say at the absolute bare minimum you'd want to install an upgraded valve body (and re-tune the truck with a 225psi trans tune), a low stall torque converter, and a billet flex plate while you're in there replacing the converter. That would give you some measure of reliability... but if you're gonna push the truck hard you might as well go with a built transmission. You'd be a couple of thousand dollars into it with the upgrades I just mentioned, and you're still eventually going to find the next weakest link.
2016 65,000 miles no head studs yet
Just studded mine at 70,000 and I run the 200hp tune on the highway and its awesome. My transmission is built
16 cummins Laramie longhorn, ccsb, 35x12.5x20 xplora mts ,tis wheels,fully deleted, pusher add a turbo kit,stainless diesel 475 5blade turbo over 63mm VGT delete turbo,manton springs, manton valve bridges,manton pushrods,ARP 625 headstuds,steedspeed t4i manifold , S&S 80% over injectors, thuren rear trackbar, kingspeed billet valve cover, revmax valve body billet plate, CCV reroute, pusher intake horn, thuren 2in level with king 2.5 front and rear, sway bar kit ,track bar and king steering damper. Air bags from airlift. 4" exhaust, fass lift pump,MM3,DRD tunes.pusher coolant reroute.
I haven’t ran that tune.
I’ve actually been babying it believe it or not haha I was just looking for advise on where to start with upgrades to the trans and opinions for best options thank you tho!!!
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