Severe Timing Knock?

[Controlled_Pair253]

Noooooo!

So I never changed it off of the 30hp tune since the last time I posted in this thread.
Voltage was 12.5 or a little over before I cranked the engine with the grid heater off.
Fired the truck up and idled it up using the cruise and turned the exhaust brake on to let it idle up while I was getting ready to leave work. So I had already drove the truck over 30 miles to work earlier in the day. So its not like the truck had been sitting for an extended time to drain the batteries.
At first it sounded fine, but after running for a few minutes it started making the exact same noise from the video again.
Immediately goes away as soon as I either turn off exhaust brake or turn off high idle.

No clue what to do now.
Apparently reloading the tunes isn't the fix.
Changing Hp level isn't the fix.

I don't really think this is something that will mechanically hurt the engine. Do you?
In any case it is embarrassing.

Also, when I read the above post you mentioned nothing about the batteries reading 14.5 volts, as you did in the last post. So, that's why I said what I said. You're with your truck, you are the one who can see everything, I'm not. I can only go off of what I read. So based off of this post, I said what I said. Based off of your other post, with more information, I wouldn't have said what I said, because in fact you have 14.5v under load, not 12.5v.

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[Aj Grubb]

Apparently i was unclear.
With my truck I am seeing
12.5 volts key on engine not running
14.5 volts key on engine is running

If I were seeing 12.5 volts with engine running that would indicate to me that I have good strong batteries and an alternator that is not charging.

Hopefully we got that all cleared up. So now that we are on the same page would you agree that this is not a battery voltage issue?

Thank you for the reply by the way. I had resigned myself to the idea that this thread was going to die an early and unsatisfying death with no conclusion reached.

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[Controlled_Pair253]

Apparently i was unclear.
With my truck I am seeing
12.5 volts key on engine not running
14.5 volts key on engine is running

If I were seeing 12.5 volts with engine running that would indicate to me that I have good strong batteries and an alternator that is not charging.

Hopefully we got that all cleared up. So now that we are on the same page would you agree that this is not a battery voltage issue?

Thank you for the reply by the way. I had resigned myself to the idea that this thread was going to die an early and unsatisfying death with no conclusion reached.

Yeah on the same page. Not the batteries I guess. I guess turbo waste gate actuator maybe functioning intermittently? I remember from the video it sounded like it was too much back pressure. I assume you reached out to DRD. Gosh dang I'm running out of ideas, it's hard not being around the truck ya know.

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[Aj Grubb]

I'm not going to pester DRD with this because I am not the original purchaser of the tunes. I bought this truck used, already deleted and already running DRD tunes.

In order to be considered the owner of said tunes and be entitled to customer support a person must be the original purchaser. Ray is a nice guy and would probably try to answer my questions if I emailed him, but I have already bugged him enough without giving him any of my money...

It would cost me about $700 to get official support from DRD because buying new tunes is the only way to get it.

I am not necessarily convinced that this problem is a tuning issue anyway, so I am very hesitant to spend $700 just to try it since I am not really having any other issues with my current tuning.

Even if I was sure new tunes would solve this problem Im still not sure I would spend the money unless someone can convince me it is detrimental to the engine in some way. I don't really know if it is or isn't harmful. I could just avoid letting it idle up with the exhaust brake on but damn does it work good to heat the cab up.

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[Jaxonsram]

I'm not going to pester DRD with this because I am not the original purchaser of the tunes. I bought this truck used, already deleted and already running DRD tunes.

In order to be considered the owner of said tunes and be entitled to customer support a person must be the original purchaser. Ray is a nice guy and would probably try to answer my questions if I emailed him, but I have already bugged him enough without giving him any of my money...

It would cost me about $700 to get official support from DRD because buying new tunes is the only way to get it.

I am not necessarily convinced that this problem is a tuning issue anyway, so I am very hesitant to spend $700 just to try it since I am not really having any other issues with my current tuning.

Even if I was sure new tunes would solve this problem Im still not sure I would spend the money unless someone can convince me it is detrimental to the engine in some way. I don't really know if it is or isn't harmful. I could just avoid letting it idle up with the exhaust brake on but damn does it work good to heat the cab up.

I’ve been following this thread for the great info it is producing!! I always like to learn as much as possible about things I don’t know that much about. That being said! I will tell you that when I start my truck when it’s cold(20 degrees or so),hit exhaust brake, it automatically goes to high idle within just a few seconds and it sounds like a jet engine with the turbo whistle, I mean it sounds like it on the runway waiting to take off. DRD full package tuning and everything thing fell off about 52,000 miles ago. Just my 2cents for what it’s worth.


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[Controlled_Pair253]

I'm not going to pester DRD with this because I am not the original purchaser of the tunes. I bought this truck used, already deleted and already running DRD tunes.

In order to be considered the owner of said tunes and be entitled to customer support a person must be the original purchaser. Ray is a nice guy and would probably try to answer my questions if I emailed him, but I have already bugged him enough without giving him any of my money...

It would cost me about $700 to get official support from DRD because buying new tunes is the only way to get it.

I am not necessarily convinced that this problem is a tuning issue anyway, so I am very hesitant to spend $700 just to try it since I am not really having any other issues with my current tuning.

Even if I was sure new tunes would solve this problem Im still not sure I would spend the money unless someone can convince me it is detrimental to the engine in some way. I don't really know if it is or isn't harmful. I could just avoid letting it idle up with the exhaust brake on but damn does it work good to heat the cab up.

I can understand that viewpoint. I'm not sure that I can be of a whole lot more help other than my other suggestion. I do wonder if the veins are not fully seating in the VGT. I mean the issue completely goes away when the exhaust brake function is not actuated. The VGT function may be malfunctioning in that the veins aren't fully seated, leading to the tune continuously attempting to correct fuel ratio???? Maybe leading to the feeling of too much timing. I'm totally spitballing here, and unfortunately dont have any solid evidence to back up my idea. Just think that the turbo or actuator or combination of both malfunctioning could be a starting point. Maybe have someone initiate the brake on start up to see where the actuator moves, if it looks like it completely actuated or partially or moves on its own...

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[Aj Grubb]

I hear ya on the jet engine, but that is perfectly normal.... its supposed to sound like that. If you watch the video I posted the intermittent almost metallic rattling sound is for sure not normal. It sounds a lot like fuel knock to me. Very similar to pre ignition or detonation you get in a gas engine with too much ignition timing or too low octane gas.

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[Aj Grubb]

That does sound plausible. I will say the exhaust brake function does seem to be working correctly while I am driving around, but I guess I'm not entirely sure because this is the only 6.7 VGT truck I have really put any miles on.

Can you visibly see the actuator moving with it fully installed on the turbo? I assumed all moving parts were internal but I don't actually know that to be true.

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[Controlled_Pair253]

That does sound plausible. I will say the exhaust brake function does seem to be working correctly while I am driving around, but I guess I'm not entirely sure because this is the only 6.7 VGT truck I have really put any miles on.

Can you visibly see the actuator moving with it fully installed on the turbo? I assumed all moving parts were internal but I don't actually know that to be true.

The actuator is external. Well, I guess I'll pose this, when the turbo is spooling, under even a small amount of boost, the VGT actuates properly. But under no boost it doesn't i.e. the issue at hand. All this being said you would think that it would throw codes, however because it is still actuating albeit not properly, it doesn't throw a code. I believe there is a way to test the actuator, but I haven't done it myself.

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[Controlled_Pair253]

Sorry that we couldn't nail this down. I'm really interested to know what is going on here. Please share if you're able to track down the issue.

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