Coolant filtration

**AnOldBiker** · 08-05-2017

On my "older" truck, the point of exit from the head was between #5 and #6 cylinder which allowed more coolant to flow under use. Thus the cooler head temp for that area. If there is the same fitting in your newer models, it is something to consider. Just a ratchet and a small extention to access. Then only a short pipe nipple with a fitting for the hose to connect to .. and your good. The area I installed the filter to is above this point and to the left, on the lip at the top of the compartment. It's allows the piping to be short, easy to access for future change out and filter replacement. Make sure you install small valves on the inlet and outlets of the head so there is less loss of coolant when changing. I usually refill my replacement filter and when the little bit of air in the top of the filter head works it's way to the puke bottle, a couple ounces is all you need to refill the bottle. Then good for a year.

The one thing not mentioned yet is the possible plugging of the filter. If there ever is enough debris to stop the flow, it's like the oil bypass filter. The flow stops, but it changes nothing. The flow will just go back to what factory had as normal until you remember and change the filter.

IMG_0234.jpg

0 Comment(s)

**walla2k5** · 08-05-2017

Originally Posted by AnOldBiker

On my "older" truck, the point of exit from the head was between #5 and #6 cylinder which allowed more coolant to flow under use. Thus the cooler head temp for that area. If there is the same fitting in your newer models, it is something to consider. Just a ratchet and a small extention to access. Then only a short pipe nipple with a fitting for the hose to connect to .. and your good. The area I installed the filter to is above this point and to the left, on the lip at the top of the compartment. It's allows the piping to be short, easy to access for future change out and filter replacement. Make sure you install small valves on the inlet and outlets of the head so there is less loss of coolant when changing. I usually refill my replacement filter and when the little bit of air in the top of the filter head works it's way to the puke bottle, a couple ounces is all you need to refill the bottle. Then good for a year.

The one thing not mentioned yet is the possible plugging of the filter. If there ever is enough debris to stop the flow, it's like the oil bypass filter. The flow stops, but it changes nothing. The flow will just go back to what factory had as normal until you remember and change the filter.

IMG_0234.jpg

So, if I'm reading this right. Your filter is the highest point in your system?

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

0 Comment(s)

**AnOldBiker** · 08-05-2017

Actually yes. Easiest place to install and I thought with the aggressive and constant flow of the coolant, it would be fine. So far I have had no issues with my coolant system in 11 years, outside of normal service intervals.

0 Comment(s)

**Polaraco** · 08-05-2017

Originally Posted by AnOldBiker

For years Ford had an issue that their water pumps failed and no one knew why. Later the common joe found out because of the way they cast blocks, the sand slowly breaks free and is like sandpaper to internals. Like in the video.

I've had a filter on my Dodge since new and have cut open the filter after each use, but only found a few flakes now and then. Still, now and then is enough to wear the water pump and such.

One other advantage of a filter installed, is cooling. If your inlet source for the filter is from the top back of the engine block, it allows more flow to that portion of the head, cooling it better and more evenly throughout the entire block. The back is normally a lesser flow and slightly hotter than the middle or front. (This is fact for the older models, not totally positive on the newer models)

Yup. Where did you learn all this nifty stuff? I knew this and still don't have one installed. LOL

Chrysler V8's, used to have all the sand lay in the cylinder skirts and eventually rot the freeze plugs. Particularly bad on the Big blocks as the last 2 cylinders would run too hot, killing the rings. Chevy just blew up

0 Comment(s)

**AnOldBiker** · 08-05-2017

I, as you are, am a very old man @Polaraco .

So you might remember when we were young and we felt very lucky when we got 100,000 miles out of an engine before we had to jerk out the engine and rebuild before work on monday. Or have to pull the transmission and redo the clutch that night and still make work in the morning. If your not garage mechanic and try to pre think your problems to fix them on the spot, your out of work. I did my best work under heavy stress back then.

To have 'a week' to think it out, pull it out, buy the parts without going into debt .. and repair or ungrade ... was considered a blessing from God.

Kids have it easy now days. And I feel less fun living !

Oh, and half my cars were Chevy's .....

0 Comment(s)

**Polaraco** · 08-05-2017

Originally Posted by AnOldBiker

I, as you are, am a very old man @Polaraco .

So you might remember when we were young and we felt very lucky when we got 100,000 miles out of an engine before we had to jerk out the engine and rebuild before work on monday. Or have to pull the transmission and redo the clutch that night and still make work in the morning. If your not garage mechanic and try to pre think your problems to fix them on the spot, your out of work. I did my best work under heavy stress back then.

To have 'a week' to think it out, pull it out, buy the parts without going into debt .. and repair or ungrade ... was considered a blessing from God.

Kids have it easy now days. And I feel less fun living !

Oh, and half my cars were Chevy's .....

How about crashing the car to tow state on Friday and have it ready for work Monday, Including paint. LOL

Who's old?

0 Comment(s)