Head Studs

**F350Cummins** · 11-20-2014

Originally Posted by Polaraco

Good question. I never took a head off of one of these so I don't know. I know how, but thankfully never had too. I look at it as an engine is an engine is an engine.

But if you are doing these studs, I suggest draining the cooling system JIC. This isn't a GM engine so I doubt there will be any coolant problems.

I have only ever had a 12V that far apart, and its been awhile.

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**Mikes 3500** · 11-25-2014

It's been over a year sense I installed my H11 hd's. they do have the nipple on the bottom. I applied grease to the tap for cutting and to hold on the the shavings. I didn't drain the coolant. Bottom tapping gives you 2 to 2 1/2 threads. I used a 3inch extension on a 1/4 drive ratchet to reach inside the holes. Lay a bunch of blankets across the front of the truck (save the rib cage ), it'll take most of the afternoon to do this. I don't get on here much. Let me know if theirs anything else.

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**DRD** · 11-25-2014

Originally Posted by Mikes 3500

I don't get on here much.

You should more often.

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**ywgbandit** · 12-12-2014

Here is an important bit of information I just found out. This might be old news to some, but I was unaware until after I ordered my A1 Technologies H-11 head studs....A1 is closed...tits up...no more. So if you get some on sale, like I did and have an issue, you are on your own. At this time the only choice for an in business supplier is ARP.

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**Polaraco** · 12-13-2014

Originally Posted by ywgbandit

Here is an important bit of information I just found out. This might be old news to some, but I was unaware until after I ordered my A1 Technologies H-11 head studs....A1 is closed...tits up...no more. So if you get some on sale, like I did and have an issue, you are on your own. At this time the only choice for an in business supplier is ARP.

Bummer. There is so much of that going on

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**ywgbandit** · 12-15-2014

I found out the studs that used to be made by A1 Technologies in Paramount California are now made by a French Company that has factories in France and India. The US plant that they apparently owned is shut down for good........ so much for "Made in the USA". I was informed by the company that I bought the studs from that they are "the same quality"...... somehow I have a little less faith is something made in France, home of Citroen and Airbus...forget India! Just my opinion.

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**ywgbandit** · 12-15-2014

Originally Posted by thewildkarrd@doublerdiesel

My understanding is ARP needs a chase down the threads just to make sure there's no burrs. The H11s need bottom tapped because they thread full length and don't have that little bottoming nipple arp has on thiers. But that's just what I heard or read when I was doing my research. Even tho you can successfully install studs without pulling the head, I think I still would and put in a fresh gasket just for the peace of mind.

The H11's do have the dog pointed tip and when I questioned the supplier he said the holes do not need to be bottom tapped, they only need to be chased if the stud won't got all the way to the bottom of the hole.

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**ywgbandit** · 03-17-2015

I'm doing my studs tomorrow and the only instructions I can ind online are for the ARP's (I have the A-1, H-11's and was told to torque to 140 ft/lbs). My question is should there be an anti-seize used on the coarse thread that goes into the block, or just install as they come out of the box. I have the supplied lube for the fine thread end and the nut and washers.

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**Polaraco** · 03-17-2015

My way of doing that stuff is

Make sure all the oil is out of the hole. Oil the threads and thread in. There is no reason to use Never Seize inside an engine. Everything is bathed in oil.

You wet the threads enough to make threading easy and they stretch evenly when torquing. But that applies more to the nuts in this case.

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**ywgbandit** · 03-19-2015

So I found an interesting bit of information about the A1, H-11's. That dog point that they machine on to the end of the stud is supposed to be bottomed in the hole and left there. The ARP instructions say to bottom and back out 1/2 turn, but the A1, H-11's are supposed to be bottomed by hand using the allen wrench and left there. Then torque as normal. I did mine today to 140 ft/lbs. Swapped out the factory bolts one at a timed and brought the first torque up to 100 ft/lbs. Then brought them all up 10 ft/lbs at a time to 140 ft/lbs and then re-torqued them all 4 times to 140 ft/lbs. A very tiring job but no issues. The valve adjustment was harder than changing out the head bolts (PITA). I also removed the 2 water pipes out of the block and it gives you way more swinging room. No to address the drive pressure issues!!
Attachment 2285

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