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Thread: Head studs

  1. Top Of Page | #11
    Permanent Vacation ywgbandit's Avatar

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    Does anyone make a better aftermarket head gasket?


  2. Top Of Page | #12
    Permanent Vacation Diesel Dawgs Performance's Avatar

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    OEM Cummins unless you want to O Ring the Head.


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  4. Top Of Page | #13
    Permanent Vacation ywgbandit's Avatar

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    I have to say I'm really worried after reading all the issues people have had with head gaskets on the Cummins 6.7. I really don't want to have to start swapping out the turbo or not use the exhaust brake because of high cylinder pressures?
    Is there a better head gasket, or is the problem really just the head bolts?
    Will replacing the head studs be sufficient and which ones? I'm running the basic RaceMe on the tow setting...I'm not sure what the hp gain is. With 14K miles on the engine, what signs do I have to look for to know when the head gasket is going.
    Will O ringing the head fix the issue once and for all on a daily driver?
    Also, what is a safe boost pressure and EGT, now that I have the gauges that every diesel should come with from the factory!!!


  5. Top Of Page | #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ywgbandit View Post
    I have to say I'm really worried after reading all the issues people have had with head gaskets on the Cummins 6.7. I really don't want to have to start swapping out the turbo or not use the exhaust brake because of high cylinder pressures?
    Is there a better head gasket, or is the problem really just the head bolts?
    Will replacing the head studs be sufficient and which ones? I'm running the basic RaceMe on the tow setting...I'm not sure what the hp gain is. With 14K miles on the engine, what signs do I have to look for to know when the head gasket is going.
    Will O ringing the head fix the issue once and for all on a daily driver?
    Also, what is a safe boost pressure and EGT, now that I have the gauges that every diesel should come with from the factory!!!
    Well, for starters the AR 425's or 2000's (same thing) is plenty for a deleted DD that just has a mild bump in HP. Factory HG is best bet. Seem to hold the best. Fire ring or o-ring isn't necessary until you get crazy with your mods... and by crazy I mean can barely use it as a DD anymore. Stock VGT will push 50 psi if you make it... but it's top end of the map is 36. It's working against you after that. EGT, our 6.7s can handle heat better than 5.9s. Keep it below 1000° continuous, then I want to say 1500-1800 short burst is the upper limit. (I try to keep within the 5.9 suggested of 1300 for short period). The main thing to watch if you can, is your boost to ebp ratio. That ebp is the closest we have to a drive pressure gauge.


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  7. Top Of Page | #15
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by thewildkarrd@doublerdiesel View Post
    Well, for starters the AR 425's or 2000's (same thing) is plenty for a deleted DD that just has a mild bump in HP. Factory HG is best bet. Seem to hold the best. Fire ring or o-ring isn't necessary until you get crazy with your mods... and by crazy I mean can barely use it as a DD anymore. Stock VGT will push 50 psi if you make it... but it's top end of the map is 36. It's working against you after that. EGT, our 6.7s can handle heat better than 5.9s. Keep it below 1000° continuous, then I want to say 1500-1800 short burst is the upper limit. (I try to keep within the 5.9 suggested of 1300 for short period). The main thing to watch if you can, is your boost to ebp ratio. That ebp is the closest we have to a drive pressure gauge.

    Well said


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

  8. Top Of Page | #16
    Permanent Vacation ywgbandit's Avatar

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    What is the 'EBD" and can it be monitored on an Edge Insight CS gauge?


  9. Top Of Page | #17
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    The stock turbo and emission system is to blame for extreme drive pressures. Once you get rid of the stock VGT and exhaust manifold the 6.7 engine breaths a lot better! I noticed drive pressures reduced dramatically on my 2008 6.7 once I swapped out the VGT turbo and manifold. Mileage doubled while empty and about 50% better while towing 12,500 lbs. I base this on my fuel records since the truck was brand new...I record all fuel use in all my vehicles.

    I never changed the stock head bolts for studs as the drive pressures did not even come close to what the stock setup created. IMO my setup was a lot safer than stock even though my engine was cranking more than 200 hp over stock to the ground. Egts were also a lot lower with the aftermarket turbo and manifold. Most of my buddies noticed the same trend when they swapped out the stock VGT for a higher flowing turbo and manifold.


  10. Top Of Page | #18
    DRD's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by ywgbandit View Post
    What is the 'EBD" and can it be monitored on an Edge Insight CS gauge?
    I think you are referring to exhaust back pressure. It is the same thing as drive pressure if you are talking turbocharged diesel engine. I know you can't monitor exhaust back pressure with a mini maxx on a 4th Gen and I suspect it's the same with the CS. I have a mechanical gauge on my truck to monitor exhaust back pressure. From my experience on a 6.7 is keep the exhaust back pressure 60 psi or less while on the throttle with factory head bolts. Any above that Russian roulette with your head gasket unless you have studs. Exhaust back pressure is not the only factor in blown head gaskets, but it plays a big role in elevated cylinder pressures which, for many possible reasons, lead to blown gaskets if it goes beyond the means to seal the block to the head.

    The Cummins Whisperer! John 3:16, Romans 10:9-10...Tuning for the Heart and Soul.


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  12. Top Of Page | #19
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    For some reason, the 6.7 has dramatically higher drive pressure than the 5.9. I have heard if the VGT is removed, it goes down.

    I think the CST can read it on the 6.7's, but not the 5.9's. Lack of sensors I guess.


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

  13. Top Of Page | #20
    DRD's Avatar

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    I know you can read the factory exhaust back pressure sensor on the 3rd Gen 6.7's with a mini maxx but not the 4th Gens. I'm betting it's the same with edge monitors.

    I can keep the VGT on a 1:1 ratio on my truck to about 25 psi, after that exhaust pressure goes higher than boost pressure. At 36 psi of boost I'm about 55 psi of exhaust back pressure.

    BTW I'll be swapping manifold and turbo in the near future for this and other reasons. I've got a 2nd gen manifold and a BW 464/83/.90 sitting on the shelf now.

    The Cummins Whisperer! John 3:16, Romans 10:9-10...Tuning for the Heart and Soul.


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