Egr unplugged?

**RATLIN'HP** · 03-19-2017

Driving it at speed is a plus. Stay away from idling, and lugging around town. Best to be hooked to a trailer pulling a good load, and keep it hot. Buddy of mine had an 09. He put 130k on it all stock before he got rid of it. Never had one problem with it, but it was hooked to a livestock trailer much of the time. Got decent mileage with it too.

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**CumminsBoyTx89** · 03-19-2017

Originally Posted by RATLIN'HP

Driving it at speed is a plus. Stay away from idling, and lugging around town. Best to be hooked to a trailer pulling a good load, and keep it hot. Buddy of mine had an 09. He put 130k on it all stock before he got rid of it. Never had one problem with it, but it was hooked to a livestock trailer much of the time. Got decent mileage with it too.

Okay, but is it safe to run it like that?

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**RATLIN'HP** · 03-19-2017

Lot of guys did so I just assume so. I'm not sure why you just don't completely delete a 7 year old truck and really make it happy with no worries.

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**Polaraco** · 03-19-2017

Originally Posted by CumminsBoyTx89

Hey guys I've seen number responses and difference answers my question is can I safely unplug my egr and just have the CEL come on but not cause my truck to go into limp mode?

I had someone suggest it to me and been thinking about it lately but wanting a for sure answer before I do it and possibly harm my engine.

Thanks in advance, I like all the knowledge that you guys have here!!

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OK Many of you guys don't know I was one of the EGR/DPF delete pioneers. I went through many different ideas to eliminate the EGR before we finally got somewhere. Fortunately the 2010 is very similar to the 07.5. 08 and 09. The EGR valve was supposed to reduce the combustion temperatures, reducing the CO and NOX. Yeah right. When I had my 07.5 and 08 I did allot of things. Eventually, I was able to exceed the bad gas output, probably to close to what they are now.

Originally the EGR disconnect disabled the Regens. Dodge updated the ECM's in late 08 and inserted a Regen timer. If the EGR was removed, the system would Regen after so many hours of running. With it operational, it Regen'd as needed. So that part is covered for you. However, you need to disconnect the flapper valve as well. The flapper restricted the fresh air when the EGR engaged. Made no sense to me, but that's what they did. End of history lesson.

You will get a engine light no matter what. Only a tuner program, like the @Double R Diesel MM3 will stop the light and Regens. The computer sees it missing and says so. Disconnecting the EGR does no harm. But you need to disconnect the flapper valve as well. When the System goes into Regen, the flapper still closes. This will make you think the truck is going into some sort of a limp mode. Floor the truck and it goes away, but comes right back until the limp is over. Disconnecting the flapper stops that reaction.

So! You are doing the truck a favor by eliminating that soot recirculating back into the intake. Disconnect the EGR and the flapper. The flapper is the silver cast just off the intake horn. The plug is on the back on the engine side as I recall. Tape up the plugs.

The intake manifolds can get clogged up. Eventually all that carbon will erode away.

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**CumminsBoyTx89** · 03-19-2017

Here's a picture can you help me identify which ones I need to disconnect?

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**gene.wells69** · 03-19-2017

You may lose Boost pressure if you disconnect it also. I have a 12, when I first got it within a week I was throwing an o2 sensor code and Boost was maxing out about 18-20psi. Dealer traced it back to bad EGR valve causing the issue. Replaced that and the o2 sensor and boom I was back to 28-ish PSI on Boost.

2012 Ram 2500 SLT Big Horn CCSB | 6.7 CUMMINS H.O. | EFI Live by Hardway Performance & CSP5 | Edge Insight CTS2 in pillar pod w/ EGT | S&B CAI with Ram Air Tube |5" Flo-Pro Straight Turbo Back | EGR & Cooler Delete | CCV Tube Delete | Throttle Valve Delete

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**Polaraco** · 03-20-2017

Originally Posted by gene.wells69

You may lose Boost pressure if you disconnect it also. I have a 12, when I first got it within a week I was throwing an o2 sensor code and Boost was maxing out about 18-20psi. Dealer traced it back to bad EGR valve causing the issue. Replaced that and the o2 sensor and boom I was back to 28-ish PSI on Boost.

2012 Ram 2500 SLT Big Horn CCSB | 6.7 CUMMINS H.O. | EFI Live by Hardway Performance & CSP5 | Edge Insight CTS2 in pillar pod w/ EGT | S&B CAI with Ram Air Tube |5" Flo-Pro Straight Turbo Back | EGR & Cooler Delete | CCV Tube Delete | Throttle Valve Delete

Sounds like you had a bad EGR to start

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**hray** · 03-20-2017

Originally Posted by Polaraco

OK Many of you guys don't know I was one of the EGR/DPF delete pioneers. I went through many different ideas to eliminate the EGR before we finally got somewhere. Fortunately the 2010 is very similar to the 07.5. 08 and 09. The EGR valve was supposed to reduce the combustion temperatures, reducing the CO and NOX. Yeah right. When I had my 07.5 and 08 I did allot of things. Eventually, I was able to exceed the bad gas output, probably to close to what they are now.

Originally the EGR disconnect disabled the Regens. Dodge updated the ECM's in late 08 and inserted a Regen timer. If the EGR was removed, the system would Regen after so many hours of running. With it operational, it Regen'd as needed. So that part is covered for you. However, you need to disconnect the flapper valve as well. The flapper restricted the fresh air when the EGR engaged. Made no sense to me, but that's what they did. End of history lesson.

You will get a engine light no matter what. Only a tuner program, like the @Double R Diesel MM3 will stop the light and Regens. The computer sees it missing and says so. Disconnecting the EGR does no harm. But you need to disconnect the flapper valve as well. When the System goes into Regen, the flapper still closes. This will make you think the truck is going into some sort of a limp mode. Floor the truck and it goes away, but comes right back until the limp is over. Disconnecting the flapper stops that reaction.

So! You are doing the truck a favor by eliminating that soot recirculating back into the intake. Disconnect the EGR and the flapper. The flapper is the silver cast just off the intake horn. The plug is on the back on the engine side as I recall. Tape up the plugs.

The intake manifolds can get clogged up. Eventually all that carbon will erode away.

Yep Plaraco knows, I remember following him and Dad2bike on another forum in 08 with their trials tribulations. I think there is still a post or stickie with your EGR findings Polaraco. Thanks for your research as it helped my 08 greatly. Hray

I think these where some of his findings I hope he doesn't mind or Admin doesn't mind

Hi All

Many of you know I have been trying different things with the EGR. The mission was to try to fool the EGR to think it was working while leaving it totally stock looking.

Here goes.

Test 1
Unplugging stock EGR

Just unplugging the EGR is very effective by itself. However it is not conclusive to removing all the soot from the intake. The EGR valve bleeds off the soot and condensation as you drive. It's possible it only does it when the exhaust brake is in use. But I am pretty sure, high speeds has enough pressure to push the valve open, defeating the purpose, but it's better than nothing.

Test 2
Complete removal

This is the best way to do it. All the other attempts to fool it were failures.

Test 3
Blocking the EGR Valve

This is a good idea, but soot piles up on the blocker plates. Condensation piles up as well. Test Run was 500 miles

I tried drilling some bleeder holes in the plates, but they weren't enough. While there was no condensation, the soot was still there. In 500 miles, the weep hole did reduce the soot some.

Test 4
Complete Blocking EGR System

I then plugged the end of the cross over tube with a freeze plug. Dorman #555-020 This worked well, maintained the stock look. I made new blocker plates and put them in with the tube plugged.

Test 5
Partial blocking EGR

I drilled a 1/16 hole in the end of the Cross Over plug and re-installed the bleeder plates. I plugged in the EGR. This worked for about 30 miles, but threw the truck into a frenzy, causing it to go into Regen with the Code Free Gen 2 in place.

I enlarged the same hole to 5/16 and tried it again. Same results, but in 45 miles.

My next step was to put the flapper back in. This ran for about 150 miles, then the truck went into a limp mode. Had to unplug the EGR to get the truck back on line.

So the final conclusion is the EGR cannot be mechanically fooled. For the best results, completely delete it or put the freeze plug and blocker plates in the system so it looks real. But I warn you, the truck will get squirrelly with the valve plugged in.

Just unplugging it works, but not complete. With it just unplugged, the following was observed.
*Lower intake temps by 20 to 25 degrees
*Lower EGT's by as much as 200 Degrees
* Longer warm ups
* Exhaust gas is still leaking into the intake. A complete block will reduce the EGT's by 50 degrees and the intake by 5 to 10 degrees.

So my test #2 and #4 is the best of all. I suggest you all follow suit to achieve the best results.

Now I have to figure out how to get that plug out of my cross over so I can replug it

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**Polaraco** · 03-20-2017

Originally Posted by hray

Yep Plaraco knows, I remember following him and Dad2bike on another forum in 08 with their trials tribulations. I think there is still a post or stickie with your EGR findings Polaraco. Thanks for your research as it helped my 08 greatly. Hray

I think these where some of his findings I hope he doesn't mind or Admin doesn't mind

Hi All

Many of you know I have been trying different things with the EGR. The mission was to try to fool the EGR to think it was working while leaving it totally stock looking.

Here goes.

Test 1
Unplugging stock EGR

Just unplugging the EGR is very effective by itself. However it is not conclusive to removing all the soot from the intake. The EGR valve bleeds off the soot and condensation as you drive. It's possible it only does it when the exhaust brake is in use. But I am pretty sure, high speeds has enough pressure to push the valve open, defeating the purpose, but it's better than nothing.

Test 2
Complete removal

This is the best way to do it. All the other attempts to fool it were failures.

Test 3
Blocking the EGR Valve

This is a good idea, but soot piles up on the blocker plates. Condensation piles up as well. Test Run was 500 miles

I tried drilling some bleeder holes in the plates, but they weren't enough. While there was no condensation, the soot was still there. In 500 miles, the weep hole did reduce the soot some.

Test 4
Complete Blocking EGR System

I then plugged the end of the cross over tube with a freeze plug. Dorman #555-020 This worked well, maintained the stock look. I made new blocker plates and put them in with the tube plugged.

Test 5
Partial blocking EGR

I drilled a 1/16 hole in the end of the Cross Over plug and re-installed the bleeder plates. I plugged in the EGR. This worked for about 30 miles, but threw the truck into a frenzy, causing it to go into Regen with the Code Free Gen 2 in place.

I enlarged the same hole to 5/16 and tried it again. Same results, but in 45 miles.

My next step was to put the flapper back in. This ran for about 150 miles, then the truck went into a limp mode. Had to unplug the EGR to get the truck back on line.

So the final conclusion is the EGR cannot be mechanically fooled. For the best results, completely delete it or put the freeze plug and blocker plates in the system so it looks real. But I warn you, the truck will get squirrelly with the valve plugged in.

Just unplugging it works, but not complete. With it just unplugged, the following was observed.
*Lower intake temps by 20 to 25 degrees
*Lower EGT's by as much as 200 Degrees
* Longer warm ups
* Exhaust gas is still leaking into the intake. A complete block will reduce the EGT's by 50 degrees and the intake by 5 to 10 degrees.

So my test #2 and #4 is the best of all. I suggest you all follow suit to achieve the best results.

Now I have to figure out how to get that plug out of my cross over so I can replug it

Wow That is old. There's that old Freeze plug trick. Heh

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