I see where everyone says 120hp tune is the max for stock engine you want to run. I have a G56 which is lower to start with does that mean the motor can handle the 150hp on a regular basis?
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I see where everyone says 120hp tune is the max for stock engine you want to run. I have a G56 which is lower to start with does that mean the motor can handle the 150hp on a regular basis?
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Originally Posted by rsabol77
No such thing as a dumb question my friend. You can run the tunes on 120 or 150. It's all in how YOU drive that will determine how long things will last. If you have a heavy foot, then yes the lower tunes will save you. If you do not have a heavy foot and just drive casually you will be fine. What gets people is they forget it's on the higher tunes and they go to pass people or have fun and then they will start to have problems slowly but surely. Or fastly but surely LOL depending on how much you do it.
I run my truck on a 175hp daily but i pay attention to everything, let it warm up before taking off, let it go through a couple heat cycles before getting on it hard in any sort of way. I always bump it down when i tow and what not.
Everyone's opinions and situations are different for sure though.
Matthew 6:9-13, 2 Corinthians 5:20
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There is more cylinder pressure on the higher HP tunes and it’s recommended that you install head studs to keep everything held down tight. That engine can make twice the HP that it’s given from stock, we just need to make sure that everything stays bolted down! Like Clayton said, it all depends on what kind of driver you are. Let the engine warm up before letting it built any boost if you have to leave in a hurry. I used to race mustangs and I always told people that the only difference between a stock engine and forged engine is a few seconds, just drive it responsibly. And if you’re deleted and running Warp Tuning, the detuned gap with the G56 is probably eliminated.
2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD
The gap is more of where my question comes from.
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And to add to this statement ... THE only dumb question is asking this after the engine blows apart .. instead of before !
Jim
2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17
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Being that you have the MM3 and using Warp Tuning, you should have the same power levels as the high outputs depending on the year of your truck. Some of the newer trucks that are considered high output only have the Aisin I believe.
2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD
rsabol77 thanked for this post
I can’t give you my personal opinion since I don’t have a G56 nor have I tuned my truck yet, but I did remember seeing this video on Double R Diesel’s YouTube channel. Around 5:10 he talks about only going up to a 60hp tune with a stock clutch. Hope this helps!
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watersupply189 thanked for this post
Yep, I can vouch for that. I couldn't use the 90hp tune until I replace the clutch, it slipped at 1/4 throttle...
2013 Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4 G56 CCLB 6.7, MM3 Tuned by Double R Diesel, Flo-Pro 4" Exhaust, Deviant Race Parts Goodies, ARP Head Studs, South Bend Clutch, 3" Thuren Front Springs w/Fox Shocks All-Around, Hell-Bent Steel Steering Box Brace, Thuren Track Bar, Air-Lift 5000, Deviant Race Parts 70" Traction Bars, Falken Wild-Peak AT3W LT285/75R18 (34.8x11.3x18) on Moto Metal MO970 18x9 +18mm
watersupply189 liked this post
I had a Stryker and that would slip the stock clutch I now have a southbend DD
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