I have only ever had a 12V that far apart, and its been awhile.
I have only ever had a 12V that far apart, and its been awhile.
2014 Ram 2500 CCSB Ram Box Larime
2011 Ram 5500
2006 Diesel Jeep Liberty
RIP. 2016 Tradesman 2500 picked up 9/28/16 MM3 DRD Tuning 107K miles wrecked by jeep wrangler.....
Other Toys: 1973 Charger Bougham edition 400 big block 42K original miles
Unicycles (about 3 dozen)
6 in a row makes her go
It's been over a year sense I installed my H11 hd's. they do have the nipple on the bottom. I applied grease to the tap for cutting and to hold on the the shavings. I didn't drain the coolant. Bottom tapping gives you 2 to 2 1/2 threads. I used a 3inch extension on a 1/4 drive ratchet to reach inside the holes. Lay a bunch of blankets across the front of the truck (save the rib cage ), it'll take most of the afternoon to do this. I don't get on here much. Let me know if theirs anything else.
You should more often.
Here is an important bit of information I just found out. This might be old news to some, but I was unaware until after I ordered my A1 Technologies H-11 head studs....A1 is closed...tits up...no more. So if you get some on sale, like I did and have an issue, you are on your own. At this time the only choice for an in business supplier is ARP.
Bummer. There is so much of that going on
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
I found out the studs that used to be made by A1 Technologies in Paramount California are now made by a French Company that has factories in France and India. The US plant that they apparently owned is shut down for good........ so much for "Made in the USA". I was informed by the company that I bought the studs from that they are "the same quality"...... somehow I have a little less faith is something made in France, home of Citroen and Airbus...forget India! Just my opinion.
The H11's do have the dog pointed tip and when I questioned the supplier he said the holes do not need to be bottom tapped, they only need to be chased if the stud won't got all the way to the bottom of the hole.
I'm doing my studs tomorrow and the only instructions I can ind online are for the ARP's (I have the A-1, H-11's and was told to torque to 140 ft/lbs). My question is should there be an anti-seize used on the coarse thread that goes into the block, or just install as they come out of the box. I have the supplied lube for the fine thread end and the nut and washers.
My way of doing that stuff is
Make sure all the oil is out of the hole. Oil the threads and thread in. There is no reason to use Never Seize inside an engine. Everything is bathed in oil.
You wet the threads enough to make threading easy and they stretch evenly when torquing. But that applies more to the nuts in this case.
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
So I found an interesting bit of information about the A1, H-11's. That dog point that they machine on to the end of the stud is supposed to be bottomed in the hole and left there. The ARP instructions say to bottom and back out 1/2 turn, but the A1, H-11's are supposed to be bottomed by hand using the allen wrench and left there. Then torque as normal. I did mine today to 140 ft/lbs. Swapped out the factory bolts one at a timed and brought the first torque up to 100 ft/lbs. Then brought them all up 10 ft/lbs at a time to 140 ft/lbs and then re-torqued them all 4 times to 140 ft/lbs. A very tiring job but no issues. The valve adjustment was harder than changing out the head bolts (PITA). I also removed the 2 water pipes out of the block and it gives you way more swinging room. No to address the drive pressure issues!!
Attachment 2285
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