It won't be until spring now, I'm going to be gone south for 3 months.
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It won't be until spring now, I'm going to be gone south for 3 months.
It won't be until spring now, I'm going to be gone south for 3 months. Does anybody know if I will be able to chase the threads in the block with the head in place? Are the ARP bottoming taps long enough?
Yu gotta stop doing Chevy.Originally Posted by Double R Diesel
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
Why are you wanting to chase the threads?
You'll have chips to deal with.
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
I used to build a mean small block Ford.Yu gotta stop doing Chevy.
The Cummins Whisperer!John 3:16, Romans 10:9-10...Tuning for the Heart and Soul.
It's what is recommended by the head stud manufacturers. I'm not convinced it's necessary, and you are right about the swarf it will produce. they say to use brake clean and compressed air to blow out the holes.
I love that recommendation. The chips just go flying everywhere and could end up in the engine. Not to worry, they'll chew up the oil pump before those chips get to the bearings. LOL
I may not know allot about filters, but I am one hello a mechanic. I think they are referring to having the head off and not saying it. You could rig up a suction tube for the shop vac. . . .
I wouldn't chase the threads, The only thing you want to blow out is any pooled oil.
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
That sounds good to me, and it was what I was going to try first. I also have an adaptor for my shop vac that I can attach a piece of tubing to to suck the holes out. Do I have to worry about the water jacket with any of the studs?
Good question. I never took a head off of one of these so I don't know. I know how, but thankfully never had too. I look at it as an engine is an engine is an engine.
But if you are doing these studs, I suggest draining the cooling system JIC. This isn't a GM engine so I doubt there will be any coolant problems.
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
My understanding is ARP needs a chase down the threads just to make sure there's no burrs. The H11s need bottom tapped because they thread full length and don't have that little bottoming nipple arp has on thiers. But that's just what I heard or read when I was doing my research. Even tho you can successfully install studs without pulling the head, I think I still would and put in a fresh gasket just for the peace of mind.
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