Electrical Issues

[67bigred]

I have a 2010 6.7l cummins. It is fully deleted truck with a 5" turbo back exhaust tuned with a mm3 programer tuned by DoubleR Diesel. It also has a sinister diesel throttle valve delete. Before I got it tuned with the mm3 my truck through a code for the MAP sensor circuit was low. and an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body. I replaced the map sensor and checked wire harness for shorts and there was none. I also put new gaskets around the intake horn and engine. But the codes are still coming up and causing issues with the performance of the truck. I'm wondering if it might have something to do with the shop who deleted it or the tuning that was put in before the mm3. I know the 2010-2012 years of cummins are known to have some electrical issues. Is there anyone else out there who has had these issues? Or does anyone have any ideas how how to fix it?? Thank you.

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[Polaraco]

When did the codes start? Immediately after the deletes?

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[67bigred]

No I bought the truck last February and it was already deleted. It drove great and was fine until about november and then the check engine light came on and all of the problems started.

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[Polaraco]

No I bought the truck last February and it was already deleted. It drove great and was fine until about november and then the check engine light came on and all of the problems started.

Check your batteries. Many times these problems start when the weather turns. The grid heaters suck down quite a bit of power and drive the voltage too low. But there is enough to start the truck. With everything off, they should be reading 12.5 volts at the battery. When the grid heaters are engaged, it shouldn't be dropping below 11.9. This occurs especially with short runs. The batteries need 20 minutes or more of good running time to be recharged, when they are at peak. If they are low, put a charger on them for a while, then reprogram the truck to stock with the charger on. Then let it recharge. Drive it a bit, continue to charge and then retune with the charger.

I have a float charger on my truck with the block heater. All my problems went away with good batteries and a good charge. I had more problems with the gell cells. Strangely, I didn't have those problems with the 08. But that had a Black Max

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[david3gen]

I agree with @Polaraco. I had a lot of issues, rough cold starts and codes popping up on my bullydog. All of this because of my batteries


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[HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN]

Check your batteries. Many times these problems start when the weather turns. The grid heaters suck down quite a bit of power and drive the voltage too low. But there is enough to start the truck. With everything off, they should be reading 12.5 volts at the battery. When the grid heaters are engaged, it shouldn't be dropping below 11.9. This occurs especially with short runs. The batteries need 20 minutes or more of good running time to be recharged, when they are at peak. If they are low, put a charger on them for a while, then reprogram the truck to stock with the charger on. Then let it recharge. Drive it a bit, continue to charge and then retune with the charger.

I have a float charger on my truck with the block heater. All my problems went away with good batteries and a good charge. I had more problems with the gell cells. Strangely, I didn't have those problems with the 08. But that had a Black Max

Agree with Steve must have good charge on batteries and keep them charged up good and good running condition

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