Looking to clean out the VGT to solve a low power issue. I have heard there is a port to use for cleaning the turbo but all of the searches lead to erased links. Anybody have any info?
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Looking to clean out the VGT to solve a low power issue. I have heard there is a port to use for cleaning the turbo but all of the searches lead to erased links. Anybody have any info?
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So I found some info on it but when I tried to find the cleaning kit, the only place I found wanted $700 for the hose and fittings.
So, does anybody have a better solution or would a stationary desoot help to clean the vanes off?
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I have never, ever, ever, heard of any manner of cleaning a turbo outside of a complete disassembly of the turbo itself. While I don't dispute your find or the process detailed therein, this sounds questionable at best.
Can you detail your current issue more? Are you experiencing a P2262 code? How many miles are on your truck?
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Jim
2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17
"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children’s children what it was once like in the United States, where men 'were' free." ~ Ronald Regan
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Fuel knock, loss of power, no smoke at all. No white smoke, no black smoke. Tailpipe opening is nice and clean, makes me wonder if it is a dieaelt.
Motor will not rev from idle without a load, not a miss but dead heading. The truck has a fuel rattle from idle that disappears once in motion and is not present when pulling from a stop very easy.
The truck is stock with only 36000 miles on it. I have cleaned the egr valve and the map sensor. The sensor was crudded up while the egr was really clean.
I ran the truck home on Friday night with full exhaust brake on, it did not work very well at the start of the drive but I limited the gear and really tried to work the motor the best I could. It had a slight tick when I parked it that totally disappeared the next day. Either the turbo is toast, the throttle valve is stuck or the DPF is clogged. I am now leaning toward the VGT being carboned up sticking, but not enough to set any codes. The same goes for the fuel issues, truck runs lazzy and has no low power.
I originally thought the torque management was causing it, but the new issues lead me to VGT problems. There was a tsb from 08 that details drilling a cleaning port into the turbo to inject turbo cleaner to clean up the carbon on the VGT but the tool is uber expensive.
I am currently thinking of pulling the down pipe from the turbo and using crc intake cleaner to clean off the vanes and the inner housing. And no, there are no codes according to 2 out of 3 scan tools. One tool brings back a u0059 code but it does not show on any of the others. I have used Alfaobd, obdlink and autoenginuity to pull the codes.
I just want my truck back.
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Full stop. 36,000 miles is no where near enough to be concerned with carbon build up unless you have thousands of hours of idle time running low quality diesel fuel.Originally Posted by cwendel
Do not drill holes in your turbo.
U0059 is a CANBUS error code, which seems wildly more logical for the issues you're experiencing.
You need to bring your truck to a service center and have it diagnosed there solely on the basis that you may have a CANBUS issue that will not be resolved by disassembling hard parts on the truck. I 100% support wanting to repair your own vehicle and be in charge of that type of stuff, but CANBUS issues are not one to dive into unless you have a background in the stuff.
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The truck had random canbus connection issues that were stopped once I replaced the batteries. I have also replace the rear nox sensor because of communication loss and no readings. The canbus connection is an electrical issue and I have gone through and tracked down the connections. Hell, for two months I had a canbus code every time I drove in the rain. I mean who in their right mind puts major plug right behind the front tire where it can get soaking wet.
The phantom code is not my problem, because if it was real, I would get a cel. No cel is being set. If I had a canbus issue, the check engine light would be on and there would be more than just that as a code.
Now, this could be the start of the front nox sensor failing. That would make sense since I just replace the rear sensor 2 months ago.
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I completely disagree with your assessment.
MILs aren't necessarily going to be set by a CANBUS problem, especially if it's an intermittent one due to something like a broken wire somewhere.
But you also must understand that CANBUS isn't just regular 12v +/- electricity. CANBUS is 5v data reference signals...on and off. And the devices managed on the CANBUS are PWM devices. If you have an oscilloscope, feel free to backprobe various modules and view the reading and you can see what I'm talking about. ( heres a great video detailing what CAN signals look like)
If you're able to datalog with any of the scan tools you have, you should be able to view the NOX sensors and determine their functionality. Additionally, you should be able to monitor your VGT percentage to determine whether or not the VGT is actually stuck. In all fairness, you are missing major data points here in determining the cause of your fault(s). I'd advise running a full datalog on the truck and reporting back with your findings, otherwise my point stands, bring your truck to the dealer and have it diagnosed with factory equipment.
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So the solution is the dealer. No thanks. Dealer techs in this area can't find an oil leak without a scan tool. The short block was replaced just a year ago, so since the dealer broke sensors and left grounds loose in the job, I have gone over the engine checked the wiring. I have also had to rerun wire looms and clean connections.
I know the diagnostics and am slowly moving through the system. The electrical checks out, with no broken wires except those left open to the elements when recalls we're done by the dealer. Those issues were fixed and there may be more but all those that were caused by recalls have been checked. I understand reference and sensor voltages. I also understand data logging and have found the rail pressure to lag behind commanded by about 300 psi while it over run commanded when letting off the throttle. I have been through this and was just asking about the cleaning procedure.
And mileage is just a minor measure of soot build up. Idle time and driving area also determine that. The truck is my tow rig and only starts to be used in June. Otherwise, it is the weekend hauler for the house. Soot build up cam very well be an issue. Especially since the MAP sensor looked like it had over 100000 miles on it.
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I’m assuming the check engine light is on. Perhaps it’s a wire in the valve cover. Or a bad solonoid in the injector but you can’t replace that, you have to replace the injector.
Just spit balling. Hopefully you’ve figured out the problem.
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