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Thread: 48RE budget towing build

  1. Top Of Page | #1
    Basic Member rollcoal9000's Avatar

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    48RE budget towing build

    My 2006 ram 2500 is in need of transmission work again.

    About 2 years ago I accidently flat towed it home in reverse. Thought I blew the trans (turns out it only pulled the shift cable out of adjustment)

    Went through it put all new seals and clutches, bands in. Everything inside looked fine. Did nothing with the converter which was already slipping. Back in march was delivering a car and the oil cooler blew out, ended up dumping a bunch of atf in to get home. Truck sat for a while, fixed, used it for a bit. Converter was slipping a lot so I was dicking around with line pressure to try and help it hold. Had it turned up a lot, did not have a gauge was not going to beat on it but ofc I forgot and had the edge on 5 going up hill on a wet sandy road and had my foot on the floor. Before that the converter would slip locking up but would still hold power when it was locked. After that it would not hold power past 1. Even 1 slips a bit but still driveable. From what I can tell its just the converter clutch thats slipping, works fine until lockup.

    I use the truck for transportation and towing anywhere from 2k-35k lbs hauling hay (air bags on the rear). I even grossed 47k with a load of 14 alfalfa last summer. I could not even get out of the field without being in 4 low. Didn't do much to the trans besides stretch the low band a little bit.

    I'm on a limited budget, for parts I'm thinking
    HD flexplate
    Low stall single disc (valair?)
    transgo shift kit
    all seals/gaskets
    converter bushing, any other bushings that need replaced
    inspect all clutches and bands, replace as needed
    Use gauge to actually set pressure at a known amount instead of guessing
    New front cooler and hard lines (had soft lines made did not work like I wanted, already leaking)
    Pan with drain plug

    I also think I may have forgot a thrust washer in the OD housing, after I turned the pressure up the first time it started banging into OD a bit, and I have what looks like a thrust washer sitting under the middle seat. It still shifts into all gears fine just will not hold at lockup. I hauled a JD 4250 in to get overhauled a few months back and I could feel the converter slipping a little bit with my foot on the floor. Gross weight was about 32,xxx on our scale. Very much overweight but a short trip and not the first time I've done it. Its to the point where I pretty much have to pull it again. I've not gotten it hot once since rebuilding so I think the clutches and bands are fine as they were when I went through it the first time and I know I got it up to 260F at least once and 240F routinely.

    The only performance parts it has are an Edge juice with attitude circa 2006 (old school) and a straight pipe exhaust. I do like to drive with a lead foot when I'm empty.


  2. Top Of Page | #2
    TexNeck's Avatar

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    Re: 48RE budget towing build

    Looks pretty good- I would say billet flex plate (not sure if that’s what you ment by HD). Goerend is the best converter/parts out there for the 48re so I would try and swing his converter if you can. If you have no power plans besides edge then a single disc should be fine. Those temps seem very high from what I can remember running my 48re- I would recommend at least a deep pan for towing heavy. For the money you can add aux cooler kit on the cheap (relatively speaking) to keep things cool. At a minimum do a pan or the six fans- Both would be ideal IMO. Running hot temps will kill your trans in a hurry

    2013 Ram 2500
    John 3:16 - Philippians 4:13

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  4. Top Of Page | #3
    JOKER! F350Cummins's Avatar

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    Re: 48RE budget towing build

    You are burning that trans up at those temps. 250*F is about 15K miles to trans failure as per charts I have seen, I linked to one below. @Polaraco knows this trans well and will have some input that I would recommend listening to.

    http://www.txchange.com/heatchrt.htm

    2014 Ram 2500 CCSB Ram Box Larime
    2011 Ram 5500
    2006 Diesel Jeep Liberty
    RIP. 2016 Tradesman 2500 picked up 9/28/16 MM3 DRD Tuning 107K miles wrecked by jeep wrangler.....


    Other Toys: 1973 Charger Bougham edition 400 big block 42K original miles
    Unicycles (about 3 dozen)


    6 in a row makes her go

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  6. Top Of Page | #4
    Basic Member rollcoal9000's Avatar

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    Re: 48RE budget towing build

    Those temps were achieved hauling hay in 4hi and 260f was when I was trying to back around a turnin 4hi loaded with 30k plus. Haven't seen it get much above 215 since I rebuilt it and started driving it with the converter locked as much as possible. I didnt see any heat coloring last time I was in there.

    Makes sense why the converter is trashed now thoufh.


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  8. Top Of Page | #5
    walla2k5's Avatar

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    Re: 48RE budget towing build

    That old trans got a workout! I do have a shift kit laying around somewhere in my shop, if you're interested.

    2013 Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4 G56 CCLB 6.7, MM3 Tuned by Double R Diesel, Flo-Pro 4" Exhaust, Deviant Race Parts Goodies, ARP Head Studs, South Bend Clutch, 3" Thuren Front Springs w/Fox Shocks All-Around, Hell-Bent Steel Steering Box Brace, Thuren Track Bar, Air-Lift 5000, Deviant Race Parts 70" Traction Bars, Falken Wild-Peak AT3W LT285/75R18 (34.8x11.3x18) on Moto Metal MO970 18x9 +18mm

  9. Top Of Page | #6
    Basic Member Controlled_Pair253's Avatar

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    Re: 48RE budget towing build

    Definately a oversized transcooler and deep pan. My dad went through 7 transmissions on his F350 until he finally put a build Jasper in it, and I installed an AM tranny cooler with it's own fan. No problems since ( yes yes, I know, it's a ford)

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


  10. Top Of Page | #7
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Re: 48RE budget towing build

    Quote Originally Posted by rollcoal9000 View Post
    Those temps were achieved hauling hay in 4hi and 260f was when I was trying to back around a turnin 4hi loaded with 30k plus. Haven't seen it get much above 215 since I rebuilt it and started driving it with the converter locked as much as possible. I didnt see any heat coloring last time I was in there.

    Makes sense why the converter is trashed now thoufh.
    The truth may hurt here, but I know the 48 inside and out. I forget more about it than most ever knew.

    If you are towing that kind of weight, and I have many times in my life, your abusing the trans. 35K in High? No No NO NO Slow down, use tow mode. Slow and easy starts and stops, manual shifts as needed.

    2nd, who told you to raise the pressure in the trans to cure a slipping converter? For that matter, how do you know it's the converter slipping? It sounds more like the intermediate drum is toast

    Did you have a manual for that specific trans. There are some critical tolerances that need to be checked during assembly. If the thrust washer was missing, you could have dropped the unit, with the trans in the truck.

    I don't think it's the converter at all. I'm not there, but your temps and the slipping complaint reflect the rear drum. That trans is overwhelming the cooler. But the cooler needs moving air. BD makes a great trans cooler for that. It has it's own fan. I think that's a 2nd problem

    Look up Cascade transmission in Oregon. That's who I deal with. Follow my lead as I advise and educate you.

    Given the abuse this went through get a new flex plate. For the life of me, I don't know how pwople break them. Excessive hard driving is usually the way.

    for towing. . . I've got a 47 and a 48 I did out there some 250K on them. Oh I forgot about my 04. there's another 48. That's still running around too.

    A little education on the trans and how it evolved. The 48RE started as a cast iron 727. It had a rear pump and a front pump. THAT trans was the only trans that could be flat towed in the Chrysler line up. Shame on you. In 1962, they went to an aluminum housing (Thank gawd) with a flanged tail shart. In 1966, the trans went to a slip yoke and was used for years. A sister was developed, the 904, for smaller cars and 6 Cylinder. It was the trans of choice by racers. In the late 80's the trans saw it's first change by adding a lock up converter. Om 1992, the 518 was developed and widely used in pick-ups and vans. There as a 904 version also, but i froget the number. The 518 was used in the late 80's and through the 90's, with a newer beefed up trans, the 47RE as an option. In the early 2000's the 48 was developed. All it was was larger drums and changed the method and monitoring/shiffiting method. (In a nut shell, it's not quite that simple)

    Given what you do, let me tell you what you need. I mean need!

    *Got to Precision converter and get a dual clutch. A single will work fine, if you do what I said about driving habits
    *You don't need it, but you can get your billet flex plate. Obviously the factory stamping works just fine, (I have the original flex and a precision dual clutch I bought used. I'm cheap)
    *Cascade has a rebuilt line of valve bodies. They actually give you a 47RE vlve body. Works perfect for towing. Anything more and you're taking a chance of slamming the shafts in the trans and breaking one.
    *Replace all the servos with the billet replacements. You want the front servo kit as it enhances the the towing shifting. Over heating the plastic stock ones kills them and they cock and jam. The billit have one more ring preventing any of that.
    *Use the high performance frictions. Not the standard.
    *Since you towed this falt, better do more shaft bushings
    *Complete rebuild kit with O rings, sealing rings, gaskets
    *Cascade sells a small red tube of friction modifier.
    *Carefully examiine every part for wear. Scoring, bushing slop, weak orings, are not allowed.
    *Cascade has a really detailed service manual
    *The trans pressure is addressed with the new valve body

    Sorry I kicked your butt. I don't want you running amock on this trans and ending up with more issues. Myy kids thank meall the time. LOL Work clean, take your time and don't shortcut
    @F359cummins


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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  12. Top Of Page | #8
    Basic Member Controlled_Pair253's Avatar

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    Re: 48RE budget towing build

    Quote Originally Posted by Polaraco View Post
    The truth may hurt here, but I know the 48 inside and out. I forget more about it than most ever knew.

    If you are towing that kind of weight, and I have many times in my life, your abusing the trans. 35K in High? No No NO NO Slow down, use tow mode. Slow and easy starts and stops, manual shifts as needed.

    2nd, who told you to raise the pressure in the trans to cure a slipping converter? For that matter, how do you know it's the converter slipping? It sounds more like the intermediate drum is toast

    Did you have a manual for that specific trans. There are some critical tolerances that need to be checked during assembly. If the thrust washer was missing, you could have dropped the unit, with the trans in the truck.

    I don't think it's the converter at all. I'm not there, but your temps and the slipping complaint reflect the rear drum. That trans is overwhelming the cooler. But the cooler needs moving air. BD makes a great trans cooler for that. It has it's own fan. I think that's a 2nd problem

    Look up Cascade transmission in Oregon. That's who I deal with. Follow my lead as I advise and educate you.

    Given the abuse this went through get a new flex plate. For the life of me, I don't know how pwople break them. Excessive hard driving is usually the way.

    for towing. . . I've got a 47 and a 48 I did out there some 250K on them. Oh I forgot about my 04. there's another 48. That's still running around too.

    A little education on the trans and how it evolved. The 48RE started as a cast iron 727. It had a rear pump and a front pump. THAT trans was the only trans that could be flat towed in the Chrysler line up. Shame on you. In 1962, they went to an aluminum housing (Thank gawd) with a flanged tail shart. In 1966, the trans went to a slip yoke and was used for years. A sister was developed, the 904, for smaller cars and 6 Cylinder. It was the trans of choice by racers. In the late 80's the trans saw it's first change by adding a lock up converter. Om 1992, the 518 was developed and widely used in pick-ups and vans. There as a 904 version also, but i froget the number. The 518 was used in the late 80's and through the 90's, with a newer beefed up trans, the 47RE as an option. In the early 2000's the 48 was developed. All it was was larger drums and changed the method and monitoring/shiffiting method. (In a nut shell, it's not quite that simple)

    Given what you do, let me tell you what you need. I mean need!

    *Got to Precision converter and get a dual clutch. A single will work fine, if you do what I said about driving habits
    *You don't need it, but you can get your billet flex plate. Obviously the factory stamping works just fine, (I have the original flex and a precision dual clutch I bought used. I'm cheap)
    *Cascade has a rebuilt line of valve bodies. They actually give you a 47RE vlve body. Works perfect for towing. Anything more and you're taking a chance of slamming the shafts in the trans and breaking one.
    *Replace all the servos with the billet replacements. You want the front servo kit as it enhances the the towing shifting. Over heating the plastic stock ones kills them and they cock and jam. The billit have one more ring preventing any of that.
    *Use the high performance frictions. Not the standard.
    *Since you towed this falt, better do more shaft bushings
    *Complete rebuild kit with O rings, sealing rings, gaskets
    *Cascade sells a small red tube of friction modifier.
    *Carefully examiine every part for wear. Scoring, bushing slop, weak orings, are not allowed.
    *Cascade has a really detailed service manual
    *The trans pressure is addressed with the new valve body

    Sorry I kicked your butt. I don't want you running amock on this trans and ending up with more issues. Myy kids thank meall the time. LOL Work clean, take your time and don't shortcut
    @F359cummins
    Straight up education. Now tell me about the G56.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


  13. Top Of Page | #9
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Re: 48RE budget towing build

    Quote Originally Posted by Controlled_Pair253 View Post
    Straight up education. Now tell me about the G56.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Not much to say. I did one once a long time ago. Seems like it's been around forever. As I recall, I had to make some tools or had to do a work around. I'm more astute on the automatics.


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

  14. Top Of Page | #10
    Basic Member Controlled_Pair253's Avatar

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    Re: 48RE budget towing build

    Quote Originally Posted by Polaraco View Post
    Not much to say. I did one once a long time ago. Seems like it's been around forever. As I recall, I had to make some tools or had to do a work around. I'm more astute on the automatics.
    I know it a fairly bulletproof trans, just wanted some insider knowledge. I appreciate the reply. Guess you cant beat a manual. Cant wait to get my phoenix friction clutch so I can actually pass on the freeway. My southbend is fried.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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