Nice work! Let us know how it works out friend..
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 (DRD), G56, 6.7, Rough Country Leveling, HID headlights, Morimoto LED fogs plus a whole lot more! [emoji106][emoji41]
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Looks good.
I probably should have mentioned earlier, I have been running without a grid heater for 3 years.
It gets down to -10 to -20F at times where I live and I haven't had any issues starting.
It may chug a bit when it is -20F, but it starts.
Something to consider if you run into issues with your new setup.
-Muzzy
I have not installed it yet.
I got my mishimoto intercooler tubing and grid delete plate i think i will get the mishimoto radiator also and do it all at the same time. I keep getting a CEL at least once a week and I have had high EGTS since I did my 2nd gin swap I wonder if my grid is also plugged up my chag temp seams kinda high
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I did get my wheels and tires on though I just need to fix my door now.
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Flipping Wonderful - 1 more mod added to the Bucket List!
@Electrojake I noticed your signature - showed you had done a similar mod.
Do ya mind sharing what all that you did?
Well no I don't mind I let my 17 year old son drive my truck and he ran it down the fence line on the way home Worst mod I ever did...
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Greetings @SyN :)
I'm Electro489 on Youtube, thus I'm the guy that made that painfully long grid heater video.
https://youtu.be/dBPLZ3uf5ws
Honestly, I'm no mechanic... or a video maker. :rolleyes:
Pictured below is part of the prototype (external series resistor) that was used to reduce the internal grid's current.
The parallel resistor (in the video but not shown in the pic below) is the one in the case that is mounted behind the fan in the video.
https://i.postimg.cc/gjw1Chn1/Grid-Prototype-1-0001.jpg
Note that I never made the P2609 code defeat circuit that I mentioned at the end of the video since I'm very happy with the "reduced current grid heater mod" as is.
An additional reason I did not do the P2609 code defeat circuit is because my 3500 is bone stock so its critical that I monitor the P2609 status at all times. The only time the P2609 defeat circuit would be safe is on a deleted truck with no grid heater.
To be honest about it, the best (and most simple) thing to do on a stock truck is just install a voltmeter & LED light on the grid wire.
The LED lets you know whenever the grid heater has power on it, and the VM lets you see the voltage drop so you know you're not 'burning' the bolt. This simple monitoring system also lets you know if you have a failed (stuck on) grid heater relay.
Grid Light and Voltmeter. . .
https://i.postimg.cc/W1Xy4c1B/Grid-Light.jpg
Shown below is a diagram of the reduced current grid heater circuit that I'm using in the video. . .
https://i.postimg.cc/65rY1xsk/RAM-Grid-Mod.png
Or the most simple plan: Just disconnect one of the thin wires off the grid heater relay and live with the constant MIL on the dash.
You'll never burn a grid heater bolt if you never energize the grid. :awesome: But on the down side... You'll never be able to remote start you truck from the key-fob again.
Regards,
-Jake-
Thank you!
I will probably look into more what Bob did.
I apologize - I had no idea the earlier posted video was yours.
Thanks again for your reply.