Spring/Coil Dashlight Shows With Lower Power But No Codes

Here's the scenario.

Puling with my '06 3500 5.9l megacab a trailer at 9300lbs over the cascade mountains on longer trip.

Twice I've thrown a dash light for the coil / spring looking idiot light and have gotten mixed info on what the light means.

This only happens after a long climb and several miles after the decent on the downhill side of a pass.

Bells go off and the light comes on...since I'm on the downhill it's not noticeable on power loss...but on a steep incline it's obvious the power is not where it was.

The light stays on and truck feels slightly underpowered...but definitely lacking power when pulling up a steep hill. After about 2-3 times of driving the truck the light goes out and power restores to normal.

Some have told me it's a grid heater issue. Others have said glow plugs (which doesn't make sense while the truck does fine until on a descent).

I've also been told it's a fuel issue after the transition of using lots of fuel and then letting off the pedal on a decline.

Anyone have an ideas what it could be and then more importantly...how to fix it??

Gotta get this figured out and fixed before I pull again in a few weeks.

Won't be much fun having power issues while climbing.

Thanks all!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrJay

Here's the scenario.

Puling with my '06 3500 5.9l megacab a trailer at 9300lbs over the cascade mountains on longer trip.

Twice I've thrown a dash light for the coil / spring looking idiot light and have gotten mixed info on what the light means.

This only happens after a long climb and several miles after the decent on the downhill side of a pass.

Bells go off and the light comes on...since I'm on the downhill it's not noticeable on power loss...but on a steep incline it's obvious the power is not where it was.

The light stays on and truck feels slightly underpowered...but definitely lacking power when pulling up a steep hill. After about 2-3 times of driving the truck the light goes out and power restores to normal.

Some have told me it's a grid heater issue. Others have said glow plugs (which doesn't make sense while the truck does fine until on a descent).

I've also been told it's a fuel issue after the transition of using lots of fuel and then letting off the pedal on a decline.

Anyone have an ideas what it could be and then more importantly...how to fix it??

Gotta get this figured out and fixed before I pull again in a few weeks.

Won't be much fun having power issues while climbing.

Thanks all!!

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This is a fuel delivery issue 100%. My 06 5.9 had it and it would happen at the same incline everyday on the way to work.

My fix was tightening the fuel feed lines. I would just put a wrench on each and check to make sure they are tight. If that fails then try doing the cross over tubes. If that fails then you may have a bad injector.

the code is triggered by too much fuel being returned to the tank. The ECM knows how much is commanded and sent so when it sees enough is not being burned then it triggers that pigtail/grid light

:cool: I appreciate the info on this.

I was hoping it wouldn't be injector related but that might be eventually what I'll need to do.

Have 280k miles now and i'm not sure if they've ever been replaced.

Should I go with stock OEM injectors if I go that route.

Spendy buggers!!! :tard:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrJay

:cool: I appreciate the info on this.

I was hoping it wouldn't be injector related but that might be eventually what I'll need to do.

Have 280k miles now and i'm not sure if they've ever been replaced.

Should I go with stock OEM injectors if I go that route.

Spendy buggers!!! :tard:

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Fingers crossed it isn’t but 280k is a really good run IMO.

I would say go with a BBI towing injector which has the capability to flow a bit more if you want some extra power or NEW Bosch stock injectors if you are staying stock.

These are spendy but rightfully so as they are the heartbeat of the truck!

Keep us posted.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TexNeck

Fingers crossed it isn’t but 280k is a really good run IMO.

I would say go with a BBI towing injector which has the capability to flow a bit more if you want some extra power or NEW Bosch stock injectors if you are staying stock.

These are spendy but rightfully so as they are the heartbeat of the truck!

Keep us posted.

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Good to know! I appreciate it. I was looking at the BBI injectors...definitely spendy! Wow
What's the difference on the stages 0.5 (towmaster), 1.0 or 5.0 Can that be directly related to how much fuel flow above stock?

Also, I've heard that you want to stay away from remanufactured. Is that true with BBI as well? I would imagine you'd just be missing out on warranty if purchased as a reman.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrJay

Good to know! I appreciate it. I was looking at the BBI injectors...definitely spendy! Wow
What's the difference on the stages 0.5 (towmaster), 1.0 or 5.0 Can that be directly related to how much fuel flow above stock?

Also, I've heard that you want to stay away from remanufactured. Is that true with BBI as well? I would imagine you'd just be missing out on warranty if purchased as a reman.

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Good afternoon, you are in great hands with Mike so I don't want to step on any toes.

I do want you to check this thread out that we made and i think it will make you feel much better about Reman injectors from BBI.

BBI Reman are the only one's we recommend. Just like Mike said it's the heart of your truck so please please don't be nervous about buying quality parts because in the end you will be very thankful you did!

Click the link below to check it out.

Holler at either of us for any questions you may have my friend as we are both happy to help!

https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads...#post-28933803

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TexNeck

This is a fuel delivery issue 100%. My 06 5.9 had it and it would happen at the same incline everyday on the way to work.

My fix was tightening the fuel feed lines. I would just put a wrench on each and check to make sure they are tight. If that fails then try doing the cross over tubes. If that fails then you may have a bad injector.

the code is triggered by too much fuel being returned to the tank. The ECM knows how much is commanded and sent so when it sees enough is not being burned then it triggers that pigtail/grid light

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Was just thinking more about this, Mike.
Would there be any way for me to figure out if this might be even more of an issue than loose fuel lines?

I'd rather be on the more knowledgeable side here than just tightening nuts and chancing a full repeat while towing.

Without pulling over a pass again...might there be a way to know if injectors are beginning to fail?

I'm still trying to get over the shock of how much new injectors would cost me. :eek:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrJay

Was just thinking more about this, Mike.
Would there be any way for me to figure out if this might be even more of an issue than loose fuel lines?

I'd rather be on the more knowledgeable side here than just tightening nuts and chancing a full repeat while towing.

Without pulling over a pass again...might there be a way to know if injectors are beginning to fail?

I'm still trying to get over the shock of how much new injectors would cost me. :eek:

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The easiest way to check injector health is with a scan tool that is able to read the balance rates.

They should be signing +/- 3% value of each other.

Anything outside of this is bad/should be replaced.

If you do have a bad injector knowing your mileage I would replace all 6.

If you are somewhat mechanically inclined you can do it yourself.

It is not too difficult but requires basic tools and ability to have a clean work place.

As a side note I was able to feel the feed line tighten with my fix so it may be worth the 10 minutes to pop the hood and give them a turn.

If one turns you’ll likely cure the problem.

If they are tight then look for a shop with scan tool