Those are some really cool looking switches :rockon::clogo::awesome::awesome:Quote:
Originally Posted by AnOldBiker
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Those are some really cool looking switches :rockon::clogo::awesome::awesome:Quote:
Originally Posted by AnOldBiker
Just to necro, if anyone is interested it it's pretty easy to add some switches into the blanks (on the 9-12s and a few of the 13-18s )
It isn't hard, if anyone is interested I could make a write up.
My 12 jeep I added a home link in the blanks, my 11 1500 I put in auxillary (oems) and moded the 3 interior switches for a total of 7 switches,Attachment 10027
Attachment 10028
Please do a write up when you have the time. I would love to see how you did it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man
Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | Custom tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Power247
Ok. This won't be about removal or anything.
You can do this also to blanks on your main switch panel ( not just on the aux. / seat heater panel) if there are any blanks. (I am talking about the panel with tow/haul, traction control ect), the 2013+ are harder as they don't have individual switch covers, but instead a giant blank panel installed
The jk (wrangler) was almost identical, except molding and I used a momentary switch
( if you dont know what you need Google momentary vs latching switch, short version: latching its press on press off. Momentary is either press on then when released off or press off then released back on. )
Take the switch covers apart releasing the tabs showed below (one on each side I used a hook kit and a flat head
Attachment 10042
Attachment 10043
Attachment 10048
There are tabs on every "blank" (unused) switch cover they will be in this location, you can use either a diagonal cutter, flush cutter, or a razor blade
(I have already removed the tabs, sorry )
Attachment 10044
When I did the momentary switch in the jeep ( garage door opener ) I needed a rigid base that took minimal pressure, i used peices of sil fos, cut them longer then the hole by a minimal amount and wedged them in the plastic, and super glued them, then soldered the momentary switch to the sil fos. (No pictures, as it's installed )
This one I used thicker wood (from an old toy) as there is a lip I could use and it would take the correct pressure needed to actuate the switch ( so between these 2 stories I am getting at you will need to improvise, adapt and overcome for your situation. )
You can see the wood in the pics below
Attachment 10045
Attachment 10047
You will need some switches ( I buy them from ebay or Amazon in multi packs usually so you can test what you need. The momentary switches come with different size necks [taller/ shorter] and the long ones you can cut down to size. Some switches have 4 pins, you will need to use a multi meter to ohm it which pins you will be using, I like to mark these with a sharpie, so I can see it later and don't have to continually do it
Attachment 10046
Put them in on your support and make modifications as needed ( cut to width, drill holes in, solder switch to, ect )
Before permanently securing them down ( gluing, if you so choose ) you will need to solder wires to the switch, I use 18ga wire as it is small enough to route, and generally can run enough current to operate a relay ( don't run high amp loads through these switches or wires, use relays! )
Dry fit the switch, in the hole. You need to make sure the switch cover can not only actuate the switch, but has enough spring power to return to normal position! If not use either a longer switch, glue an extension onto either the switch or the cover, so that it contacts the switch, or use wood ( as I did, I stacked it for the one used in the examples) ( again no pictures as this was already done)
For switch return I used the springs out of pens I get for free, you can cut them down, if you need to remove some strength from them; if they are too short you can stretch them, I had to do both to this unit
Attachment 10047
They just happened to fit perfectly!
Next, route your wires, this will depend on your space, mine ran perfect down and to these holes I drilled, my jk I ran internally and out the sides
Attachment 10049
I used a price of stout cardboard to protect the rubber membrane from the springs, the wrangler I used momentary switches with long necks, so I just put the spring on the long neck of the switch, and was able to center it ( which helps allot with switch return! ), so this was not needed
Attachment 10050
....
That's about it, any questions let me know. I did this a long while ago, sorry i can't be more specific, but i don't know the specific pns and whatnot anymore.
As to the homelink... that will depend on the model.
I recommend always ebaying the newest model (version) at present iirc it's hl5.
All I do is use my meter, and ohm out the switches and solder wires on both sides of it (again marking the pcb with a sharpie ) the good news is one side of the switches is always the same ( power , aka 12vdc side)
And solder power supply (12vdc and common) I sometimes have to test with jumpers, but they all conve with an obvious connector that has power and in the newer vehicles communication ( in the rams, it will say channel 1 transmitting on the dash... that's through the communication.)
I am sure the homelink section is clear as mud. As I have no pictures, sorry there are plenty of guides on the web though. I hope the switches section, allows for people to feel more comfortable modding them. If I do another panel, I'll try to take a step by step pictures...
@Mega Man Thanks for taking the time to share this!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man
@IGOTACUMMINS can this post be made into its own thread and stickied in the 4th gen how-to section?
Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | Custom tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310