Partial Engine Rebuild?

Alright, I'm looking into rebuilding my engine.

Nothing is wrong with it. Runs perfectly fine.

I have been throwing a lot at it and want to beef it up to prevent any damage down the road.

I want to replace the rods and pistons and throw a girdle on it.

I've been searching around and can't find a specific answer.

I'm not entirely tearing down the engine.

Just simply replacing rods and pistons.

Is there anything specific I should be doing to replace said parts?

It seems like it wouldn't be difficult at all.

Just replace them and check clearances?

I'm very familiar with these trucks and have vast mechanical knowledge, I just haven't tackled this job before, so I'm trying to pick some brains.

The truck is currently stock bottom end with a mildly built top. S475, 200 over injectors, dual CP3s, valve springs, pushrods, head studs, and soon a fleece performance head.

I want to throw Wagler street fighters and Malhe pistons in.

Thanks!


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https://waglercompetition.com/produc...nnecting-rods/

I would think that they would send instructions with the order.

Didn’t think about that.

I’ll reach out to them to see what they say.


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It sounds like you don’t want to pull the block.

I’d pull the engine and at least have the cylinders honed.

Are you planning to have the mains line honed for the main studs/girdle?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chrisn162001

It sounds like you don’t want to pull the block.

I’d pull the engine and at least have the cylinders honed.

Are you planning to have the mains line honed for the main studs/girdle?


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I planned to pull the engine and tear it down as little as possible.

But this is the information I hoped folks would chime in about.

I would have the cylinders honed if they looked rough; the motor only has 45k miles on it, so I don’t foresee that being an issue.

As far as the mains go, I was going to assemble it and see the clearances on the main bearings, then align hone if necessary.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by JET

I planned to pull the engine and tear it down as little as possible.

But this is the information I hoped folks would chime in about.

I would have the cylinders honed if they looked rough; the motor only has 45k miles on it, so I don’t foresee that being an issue.

As far as the mains go, I was going to assemble it and see the clearances on the main bearings, then align hone if necessary.

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If you are doing a girdle, you must have the mains line honed.

The main studs are torqued higher, and the higher torque will distort the main caps.

The beans machine is the only girdle that doesn’t require machine work for the block to fit.

I installed them without line honing to get an engine ready for a race, and they all wore the main bearings.

Those were race engines, so it didn’t matter.

I wouldn’t do it on a street engine that needs to last.

And as far as the cylinder hone at 45k, if you are using new rings, I would re-hone no matter what.

It would suck to do all that work and have the engine use oil cause the ring didn’t seat.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chrisn162001

If you are doing a girdle, you must have the mains line honed.

The main studs are torqued higher, and the higher torque will distort the main caps.

The beans machine is the only girdle that doesn’t require machine work for the block to fit.

I installed them without line honing to get an engine ready for a race, and they all wore the main bearings.

Those were race engines, so it didn’t matter.

I wouldn’t do it on a street engine that needs to last.

And as far as the cylinder hone at 45k, if you are using new rings, I would re-hone no matter what.

It would suck to do all that work and have the engine use oil cause the ring didn’t seat.

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You make a good point.

Honestly, I was trying to take shortcuts to make it as easy as possible, but if I do it, I will do it right and get the machine to work and do everything correctly.

I’m already pushing this motor to the limit and want to beef it up before something goes wrong and costs more money to fix later on.

I am looking for longevity along with power.

I appreciate the feedback!


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On another note how do you like the 475 and 200%?

I’m regretting my 467 and 100%.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by JET

You make a good point.

Honestly, I was trying to take shortcuts to make it as easy as possible, but if I do it, I will do it right and get the machine to work and do everything correctly.

I’m already pushing this motor to the limit and want to beef it up before something goes wrong and costs more money to fix later on.

I am looking for longevity along with power.

I appreciate the feedback!

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You should also be at the point hp-wise where a cam will be beneficial.

I might look into that and machine work for cam bushings in the block.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chrisn162001

You should also be at the point hp-wise where a cam will be beneficial.

I might look into that and machine work for cam bushings in the block.

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If I’m tearing the whole thing down for machine work, then you are right; looking into a performance cam might be a good idea while I’m in there.

I want to tear it down once and not have to mess with it again for a while.

I love the 475. I had a 467 on stock fuel, and it was fun, but there was more to be desired. 475 takes a little longer to light, but once it does, it puts your *** back in the seat.

I can control the power more with rpm since my truck has a G56. It’s a super fun combination.

I might consider compounds later after the motor rebuild, but I’m happy with my big single.


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