How To Troubleshoot Flashing Gauge Cluster - Repairing Your TIPM PDC
You're never too old to learn. After 9 months I finally fixed my gauges. Unfortunately, it turned out someone else was supposed to replace a part, and didn't do it. In the process, I learned all the possible places than can cause your gauge cluster to flash randomly. The check engine lights, and all the lights flash on and off with no pattern.
Here are the possible causes.
Bad gauge cluster. This is a known problem in the 2006's. There is a test procedure in the factory service manual. You can look that up in the manual section.
Bad TIPM or Power Distribution Center, PDC, under the hood. This is the fuse box. You can take it apart to the individual layers. As a quick note on this, there are several spade connectors that need to be removed. They just slide off the stud. When replacing them, make sure you replace them in the exact same orientation as you removed them.
After successfully removing the layers, you can solder in jumpers on any damaged bars. These connections are made with buss bars, not a printed circuit board, although there is one printed board. I suggest nothing less than 12 gauge wire. On main feeders, you may want to solder in 2 wires to handle the load.
Further, when you take it apart, it is smart to stack the layers in order, or mark them. To remove the top, take a picture so you can replace the fuses correctly. Remove all the fuses and relays. Inside the top lip, gently pry back the case. You'll see little locking tabs on the inner cover. Insert something to keep the case away from them. Work your way around the top lip until you get all the tabs opened. Make sure the large power stud tabs are free. You may need to help them off the stud. Gently pry up the cover.
Once inside, each layer just slides up. There is a little tab on the top of the of the spade that will prevent reassembly if not in the right direction.
Smart thing to do is take picture of that layer first. This operation sounds dangerous, but it's not as hard as it sounds. My mission here is to tell you the little secrets to be successful. Dielectric grease Everything! Vaseline works too
C130 Bulkhead Connector. This is the large connector located behind the master cylinder. It is typically pack with dielectric grease and the last place you need to look. You cannot take this connector apart without removing the bolt in the center. In the event the the bolt head rusted off, (Like Mine did) Drill a hole in the bolt and use an easy-out to extract the bolt. As said, the bolt has to come completely out. There is a locking collar inside on the bolt. You can use a small drill to split it.
Under dash connector. There is a large connector under the dash. On the third gen's it is on the left side of the column. The steering wheel has a tendency to pull on the harness when adjusting the wheel height.
Gauge cluster connector Remove the cluster and check the connector. Remove it, grease it, and reconnect it.
ABS Sensors The ABS sensors can short out. If the wires are damaged or there is water in the connector it can cause the Dash to flash and render the ODP port inoperative.
Re: How To Troubleshoot Flashing Gauge Cluster - Repairing Your TIPM PDC
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Polaraco
You're never too old to learn. After 9 months I finally fixed my gauges. Unfortunately, it turned out someone else was supposed to replace a part, and didn't do it. In the process, I learned all the possible places than can cause your gauge cluster to flash randomly. The check engine lights, and all the lights flash on and off with no pattern.
Here are the possible causes.
Bad gauge cluster. This is a known problem in the 2006's. There is a test procedure in the factory service manual. You can look that up in the manual section.
Bad TIPM or Power Distribution Center, PDC, under the hood. This is the fuse box. You can take it apart to the individual layers. As a quick note on this, there are several spade connectors that need to be removed. They just slide off the stud. When replacing them, make sure you replace them in the exact same orientation as you removed them.
After successfully removing the layers, you can solder in jumpers on any damaged bars. These connections are made with buss bars, not a printed circuit board, although there is one printed board. I suggest nothing less than 12 gauge wire. On main feeders, you may want to solder in 2 wires to handle the load.
Further, when you take it apart, it is smart to stack the layers in order, or mark them. To remove the top, take a picture so you can replace the fuses correctly. Remove all the fuses and relays. Inside the top lip, gently pry back the case. You'll see little locking tabs on the inner cover. Insert something to keep the case away from them. Work your way around the top lip until you get all the tabs opened. Make sure the large power stud tabs are free. You may need to help them off the stud. Gently pry up the cover.
Once inside, each layer just slides up. There is a little tab on the top of the of the spade that will prevent reassembly if not in the right direction.
Smart thing to do is take picture of that layer first. This operation sounds dangerous, but it's not as hard as it sounds. My mission here is to tell you the little secrets to be successful. Dielectric grease Everything! Vaseline works too
C130 Bulkhead Connector. This is the large connector located behind the master cylinder. It is typically pack with dielectric grease and the last place you need to look. You cannot take this connector apart without removing the bolt in the center. In the event the the bolt head rusted off, (Like Mine did) Drill a hole in the bolt and use an easy-out to extract the bolt. As said, the bolt has to come completely out. There is a locking collar inside on the bolt. You can use a small drill to split it.
Under dash connector. There is a large connector under the dash. On the third gen's it is on the left side of the column. The steering wheel has a tendency to pull on the harness when adjusting the wheel height.
Gauge cluster connector Remove the cluster and check the connector. Remove it, grease it, and reconnect it.
ABS Sensors The ABS sensors can short out. If the wires are damaged or there is water in the connector it can cause the Dash to flash and render the ODP port inoperative.
Awesome info thanks!
I went through this too mine was the TIPM fuse box under the hood.
I replaced it with a Doorman and it was plug and play and is still working good 1.5 yrs later. :)
