Pulling when braking

Hey guys, have a issue I’d like some of y’alls input on. Truck : 1989 W250, just had ; new rotors, calipers, master cylinder, booster, pads, flex lines to each front brake caliper, shoes, wheel cylinders, axle seals, drums turned, diff’s serviced, transfer case resealed & bearings replaced. All this done & now the truck yanks to the right under breaking. They have replaced the passenger side caliper twice, after the above work & had to deglaze the rotor. Still does the same thing, pulls to the right under breaking. It is intermittent now, as opposed to continuous, like it was at first, but still does it. It also just blew the right rear wheel cylinder, so now they had to replace it as well. I pull a cargo trailer every day with this truck for work & it’s of course magnified when pulling the trailer. So everything except the proportioning valve, the hard lines & the rear flex line to the axle have been replaced & these guys are stumped, I am also. Any ideas would be most appreciated!!! This is now a two month problem & I’m at my wits end!!! Thanks

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Originally Posted by Joeyvco

Hey guys, have a issue I’d like some of y’alls input on. Truck : 1989 W250, just had ; new rotors, calipers, master cylinder, booster, pads, flex lines to each front brake caliper, shoes, wheel cylinders, axle seals, drums turned, diff’s serviced, transfer case resealed & bearings replaced. All this done & now the truck yanks to the right under breaking. They have replaced the passenger side caliper twice, after the above work & had to deglaze the rotor. Still does the same thing, pulls to the right under breaking. It is intermittent now, as opposed to continuous, like it was at first, but still does it. It also just blew the right rear wheel cylinder, so now they had to replace it as well. I pull a cargo trailer every day with this truck for work & it’s of course magnified when pulling the trailer. So everything except the proportioning valve, the hard lines & the rear flex line to the axle have been replaced & these guys are stumped, I am also. Any ideas would be most appreciated!!! This is now a two month problem & I’m at my wits end!!! Thanks

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Did they absolutely get all the air bled out of the system completely?
You could have rust or some type of debris built up inside the metal lines and/or proportioning valve?
How old/miles was on the brake fluid?
Personally I would go ahead and replace everything else since you have just about changed out the whole brake system. Keep us posted what you find out friend. [emoji106]


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, MM3 by Double R Diesel, Rough Country Leveling, 35x12.50 Nitto G2, HID headlights and fogs plus many many other add ons.....[emoji106][emoji41]

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Originally Posted by Joeyvco

Hey guys, have a issue I’d like some of y’alls input on. Truck : 1989 W250, just had ; new rotors, calipers, master cylinder, booster, pads, flex lines to each front brake caliper, shoes, wheel cylinders, axle seals, drums turned, diff’s serviced, transfer case resealed & bearings replaced. All this done & now the truck yanks to the right under breaking. They have replaced the passenger side caliper twice, after the above work & had to deglaze the rotor. Still does the same thing, pulls to the right under breaking. It is intermittent now, as opposed to continuous, like it was at first, but still does it. It also just blew the right rear wheel cylinder, so now they had to replace it as well. I pull a cargo trailer every day with this truck for work & it’s of course magnified when pulling the trailer. So everything except the proportioning valve, the hard lines & the rear flex line to the axle have been replaced & these guys are stumped, I am also. Any ideas would be most appreciated!!! This is now a two month problem & I’m at my wits end!!! Thanks

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Agreed with watersupply about air. Something you can try for your self without paying someone. Try gravity bleeding the entire system. Just take the cap off the reservoir and break loose all the bleedet screws and let it drain out just make sure you keep the mastercylinder full. And if your doing it and lets say the right front isnt draining like the others more than likely there is air in there. From my experience gravity bleeding works best also kinda serves as a brakr flush too. Just my 2 cents.

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Originally Posted by watersupply189

Did they absolutely get all the air bled out of the system completely?
You could have rust or some type of debris built up inside the metal lines and/or proportioning valve?
How old/miles was on the brake fluid?
Personally I would go ahead and replace everything else since you have just about changed out the whole brake system. Keep us posted what you find out friend. [emoji106]


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, MM3 by Double R Diesel, Rough Country Leveling, 35x12.50 Nitto G2, HID headlights and fogs plus many many other add ons.....[emoji106][emoji41]

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Agrees with water supply go ahead and replace rest of lines the steel brake lines wear out just like everything else had the same problem with my 97 always pulling to the right had the steel lines replaced and stopped doing it ;)

Axle wrap up front?

Ok, so the shop owner called me today & said they think it’s now the driver side caliper NOT engaging. Tomorrow they will replace both sides again, he sourced some “ premium “ calipers from somewhere else, said he looked at the ones they put on & they look like crap. He also said the wet right rear wheel was not a wheel cylinder like the desk guy told me, but the new seal they just put in. So they replaced that & he told them to do the bearing as well, cause the cage on the bearing looked worn. I don’t think it would be air still, simply because they have power bled them 4 times now. I would think more likely crap in the proportioning valve / lines myself, & have told them that a few times now. But, I’m a Systems & AC contractor, what do I know?? On that note, what valve from another truck works on these things? I have heard theres a GM one & I think a Ford one that will work, would like ur guys’s input on that also please. Thanks for your replies, much appreciated guys.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by watersupply189

Did they absolutely get all the air bled out of the system completely?
You could have rust or some type of debris built up inside the metal lines and/or proportioning valve?
How old/miles was on the brake fluid?
Personally I would go ahead and replace everything else since you have just about changed out the whole brake system. Keep us posted what you find out friend. [emoji106]


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, MM3 by Double R Diesel, Rough Country Leveling, 35x12.50 Nitto G2, HID headlights and fogs plus many many other add ons.....[emoji106][emoji41]

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Originally Posted by Dwelsh

Agreed with watersupply about air. Something you can try for your self without paying someone. Try gravity bleeding the entire system. Just take the cap off the reservoir and break loose all the bleedet screws and let it drain out just make sure you keep the mastercylinder full. And if your doing it and lets say the right front isnt draining like the others more than likely there is air in there. From my experience gravity bleeding works best also kinda serves as a brakr flush too. Just my 2 cents.

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Originally Posted by HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN

Agrees with water supply go ahead and replace rest of lines the steel brake lines wear out just like everything else had the same problem with my 97 always pulling to the right had the steel lines replaced and stopped doing it ;)

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Originally Posted by Joeyvco

Ok, so the shop owner called me today & said they think it’s now the driver side caliper NOT engaging. Tomorrow they will replace both sides again, he sourced some “ premium “ calipers from somewhere else, said he looked at the ones they put on & they look like crap. He also said the wet right rear wheel was not a wheel cylinder like the desk guy told me, but the new seal they just put in. So they replaced that & he told them to do the bearing as well, cause the cage on the bearing looked worn. I don’t think it would be air still, simply because they have power bled them 4 times now. I would think more likely crap in the proportioning valve / lines myself, & have told them that a few times now. But, I’m a Systems & AC contractor, what do I know?? On that note, what valve from another truck works on these things? I have heard theres a GM one & I think a Ford one that will work, would like ur guys’s input on that also please. Thanks for your replies, much appreciated guys.

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As I was attaching all those people to sayyyyy

You replaced the rubber lines on both sides? I can't see his work but the veteran membership will tell you. There are mechanics and then there are MECHANICS! I'm wondering if maybe he kinked a line when he changed the hose. Pretty strange for a caliper not to expand, new/rebuilt out of the box. If he pulls the hose off the caliper, and it doesn't drip any fluid, better get busy and look back.

Another thought is twisting the line at the fitting can block it too. The lines are common to stick to the compression nut

You have a setup like this? Drivers side.

Attachment 7674

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Originally Posted by Polaraco

As I was attaching all those people to sayyyyy

You replaced the rubber lines on both sides? I can't see his work but the veteran membership will tell you. There are mechanics and then there are MECHANICS! I'm wondering if maybe he kinked a line when he changed the hose. Pretty strange for a caliper not to expand, new/rebuilt out of the box. If he pulls the hose off the caliper, and it doesn't drip any fluid, better get busy and look back.

Another thought is twisting the line at the fitting can block it too. The lines are common to stick to the compression nut

You have a setup like this? Drivers side.

Attachment 7674

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You only get the service of the tech thats working on your stuff and thats anywhere. They very well could have 2 right hand calipers. Or just have yhem mixed up. Seen it happrn before But with that they would know when your bleeding the system. Unless they power bled the system because it was a pain to get the air out. @Joeyvco worn steering/ suspension components will amplify a brake pull also. Like a trac bar

Hey, been out of town a bit. So here’s an update; yes they power bled it, twice! They also replaced both front calipers & flex lines AGAIN! They readjusted the rears & he is ordering new auto adjusters for rear, said they are crappy looking. He also wants to replace the Porportioning valve, but as you all know .... they don’t make em anymore!! So, what is an adequate replacement for the OEM one? All that being said, now the damn thing pulls to the LEFT! Thanks again, I need a beer ...

Ok, I located a “ OEM style “ Proportioning valve from Carolina Classic Truck’s, if anyone is trying to locate a new, not remaned one. Will put this in, blow out the front “ T “ & flex lines, reconnect, power bleed again, & see what happens next. ??