Barometric Pressure reading on RaceME Ultra

I'm trying to track down a cold start issue on a 2014 6.7 and noticed that the barometric pressure reads 4.18 psi on the ultra where in my mind it should read 14 psi at 1300 ft can any one clarify.

The issue is after start up 30-60 sec. instead of going into a higher idle it sounds as though the turbo kicks on, truck wont move whining out the exhaust and black smoke if you give it any fuel.

I let it warm up to 160 deg. and it's good to go.

Also turbo and VGT's are zeroed out during that period and if I plug it in at night it starts just fine in the morning.

Thanks

After 30 seconds in cold climate, the exhaust brake engages to aid in warm up.

Sounds like your truck is doing exactly what it's supposed to do.

If you live in a climate that necessitates the block heater being plugged in, I'd suggest plugging your truck in.

Hell I used to plug my 4th Gen in at night here in Arizona during the winter just so I wouldn't have to wait for it to warm up in the morning before work & so the exhaust brake wouldn't engage in my HOA Nazi neighborhood.

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Originally Posted by RamIt

After 30 seconds in cold climate, the exhaust brake engages to aid in warm up.

Sounds like your truck is doing exactly what it's supposed to do.

If you live in a climate that necessitates the block heater being plugged in, I'd suggest plugging your truck in.

Hell I used to plug my 4th Gen in at night here in Arizona during the winter just so I wouldn't have to wait for it to warm up in the morning before work & so the exhaust brake wouldn't engage in my HOA Nazi neighborhood.

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Yes it may supposed to do that but not make the truck inoperable till it reaches 160 deg, any thing below 60 deg causes the problem unless pluged in.

I've got 190000. miles on it and have never had this problem even when it's been below 0. instead of raising the idle up after 30 sec it literally slows it down (rough idle) won't move out of it's tracks.

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Originally Posted by weldo3

Yes it may supposed to do that but not make the truck inoperable till it reaches 160 deg, any thing below 60 deg causes the problem unless pluged in. I've got 190000. miles on it and have never had this problem even when it's been below 0. instead of raising the idle up after 30 sec it literally slows it down (rough idle) won't move out of it's tracks

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If you aren't deleted, you probably have significant intake blockage from soot & your MAP is probably not doing it's thing anymore.

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Originally Posted by RamIt

If you aren't deleted, you probably have significant intake blockage from soot & your MAP is probably not doing it's thing anymore.

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2014 3500 drw deleted for 3yrs raceme ultra I run 150hp tune now with the switches I run the #4 performance (get my best mileage) The turbo was my first thought and I haven't ruled it out but it works perfectly, no lost boost eb works flawlessly both in manual and auto VGT range from 14-80 and 100% with eb. I'm in northwest arkansas 63deg at lunch I start the truck I let it idle to see if it's going to act up it doesn't so at 120 coolant temp I go to take off and as soon as I start rolling the eb kicks on with my foot on the gas for about 3 sec (the switch was off) Not the first time, this all started last week when we had a 50 deg night. This all makes me question weather it's electrical or mechanical I had a diesel mechanic who works on large diesels ask about the barometric pressure says it messes with the engine till it reaches a certain temp and then has no effect on it, but I don't know how much truth there is to that. That's why I'm looking to see if that 4.18 barometric pressure sounds normal.
One other thing I did notice this morning while waiting for the truck to get over it's issue is the headlights DID NOT get dimmer and brighter as they have in past winters (I assume it is the grid heater that causes that) temp was 48deg.

Thanks

I don't think I mentioned that it is not setting any codes. I did just download alfaobd and obdlink mx + should be at home when I get there, so if I have to clean the turbo it's capable of calibrating the actuator, guess I'll see how it does as a scanner.

So you're probably the 5th or 6th new member on this forum to bring up cleaning the turbo & messing around with the actuator via 3rd party controls in addition to having cold start/idle issues with no codes.
All due respect, I'm not going down that road. And the last guy to bring up turbo cleaning proposed drilling holes in his turbo to try and accomplish that.

I dont know what the "#4 performance switch" is. Or what you mean by manual vs auto VGT.

You have a barometric pressure reading of 4psi at 1300 feet, which, by math, your barometric should be 14psi; so obviously thats an issue. If you're getting a ton of black smoke, poor idling, and poor performance...all signs point to an intake air leak/pressure leak somewhere in your system as it sounds like your truck is over fueling.
Pressure test your intake system (or smoke it) and start there. Rule things out by deductive reasoning.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by weldo3

I'm trying to track down a cold start issue on a 2014 6.7 and noticed that the barometric pressure reads 4.18 psi on the ultra where in my mind it should read 14 psi at 1300 ft can any one clarify.

The issue is after start up 30-60 sec. instead of going into a higher idle it sounds as though the turbo kicks on, truck wont move whining out the exhaust and black smoke if you give it any fuel.

I let it warm up to 160 deg. and it's good to go.

Also turbo and VGT's are zeroed out during that period and if I plug it in at night it starts just fine in the morning.

Thanks

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Just wanted to address the barometric pressure readings. On my MM3 monitor I have a choice of monitoring Barometric Pressure or Barometric Pressure SAE. On the first one I get 4.23 psi on the second one(SAE) I get 14.21 psi. So I am thinking your Race Me Ultra may be giving you the wrong reading.


2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. MM3 by Double R Diesel. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RamIt

So you're probably the 5th or 6th new member on this forum to bring up cleaning the turbo & messing around with the actuator via 3rd party controls in addition to having cold start/idle issues with no codes.
All due respect, I'm not going down that road. And the last guy to bring up turbo cleaning proposed drilling holes in his turbo to try and accomplish that.

I dont know what the "#4 performance switch" is. Or what you mean by manual vs auto VGT.

You have a barometric pressure reading of 4psi at 1300 feet, which, by math, your barometric should be 14psi; so obviously thats an issue. If you're getting a ton of black smoke, poor idling, and poor performance...all signs point to an intake air leak/pressure leak somewhere in your system as it sounds like your truck is over fueling.
Pressure test your intake system (or smoke it) and start there. Rule things out by deductive reasoning.

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REALLY
1st- of all I've been a member for over 2yrs.
2nd- I didn't ask about the dues and don'ts of cleaning a turbo
3rd- if you where up on raceme ultra you would know what #4 performance switch is
4th- Yes I too Think the barometric pressure should be 14 (first line first post that was my question was just asking for clarification)
5th - Guess i'm not good at explaining the issue I've got a truck that runs like a bat out of h-ll with the exception of 5min during warm up

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AK Bob

Just wanted to address the barometric pressure readings. On my MM3 monitor I have a choice of monitoring Barometric Pressure or Barometric Pressure SAE. On the first one I get 4.23 psi on the second one(SAE) I get 14.21 psi. So I am thinking your Race Me Ultra may be giving you the wrong reading.


2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. MM3 by Double R Diesel. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Thank you.

I will check to see if I have the say.

I have the same truck just SLT.