That's a pile of schtuff
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I’m going to try to flush my heater core first this morning I noticed it was warmer on the passenger side vs the driver side. I don’t have dual cool/heat control so it should be the same.
How long did it take you to take the dash out?
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Waste of time. It's either the damper or the controls. We've been down this road before. If both heater hoses are hot near the firewall, the core is open. Come to think of it, as long as I've been driving these trucks and the forums, I've never heard of the core clogging.
[emoji2357][emoji1783] I know there is an actuator to the left of the glove box that I can see. When I move the knob from cold to hot I see it move. When I hit the recirculating button I see that actual door open. I can get Luke warm air out of the front vents but when you change it to floor or defrost it’s cooler then what was coming out of the front vents. Now if I drive for about an hour I can get the truck warm inside with the blower on high, but this that amount of time I should be sweating. Do you have any recommendations I could check before taking out the entire dash?
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Agree with @Polaraco. Anything else is a waste of time.
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I believe there are aftermarket blending doors for the 4th gens. I know there are some for the 3rd gens. These doors eliminate the breaking. I might suggest you order them and for pete's sake, take it to a shop or someone who understands the systems. I can tell you're not too mechanical. You have to separate the AC evap lines too. It will require a gauge set, vacuum pump and a couple of cans of freon. It's not really that hard if you are an experienced mechanic. Even a good shade tree would be good. I have all that stuff and the tools and vocabulary to do this job. Mine is even more complicated because of all my auxiliary systems and gauges.
Based on what I have been reading, I urge you to get help or send it out. It's cheaper than breaking stuff. Just the old grampa passing on wisdom. No smart butt intended. Just being realistic. :awesome::awesome: