Install Cab Clearance Lights

So I ordered a set of the Recon Clearance lights (264146BK) about a year ago and have been hesitating on installing them because of the fact I have to drill through the roof and it didn't come with very good instructions or a diagram at all.

1. Make sure you have everything you need:
1.1. All the lights and wiring harness are intact and not missing or broken
1.2. 1/8” and 1/2” drill bits and drill
1.3. T-25 bit
1.4. 8mm and 10mm sockets
1.5. Center punch
1.6. Measuring tape (a fabric measuring tape is best because its flexible)
1.7. Masking or painters tape
1.8. Pencil so you can erase and move lines if needed
1.9. The screws that came with it were kind of soft and silver and I wanted black. Lowes has the following: Hillman 10x1-1/4” Black Chromate sheet metal screws. Product # 884861 and you will need 10.
1.10.The kit came with rubber washers but they can deformed once you tighten them down. Lowes has the following: Hillman Black Flat Washer #6. Product # 885806 and you will need 10 of these also.
1.11.Silicone is a MUST! Because my truck is black I used DAP Dynaflex 230 Black silicone Lowes product # 553860
2. Clean, dry and tape the front part of the roof where the lights will be installed
3. Measure up 4” from the front edge of the roof and make a continuous line following the curve of metal all the way to the other side. (see pictures)
4. Do the same at 6”
5. Refer to the pictures below for the layout I used. You can change any measurements if you would like but these provided will get you five lights that have an equal distance between each. Some people like putting the three center lights closer together than the two outside but I really think that looks off.
6. The following are for a 4^thGen 2014 Mega cab with a sunroof. Likely if you are close to this model the measurements will be the same but please check very carefully before drilling.
7. The far left and right lights need to be set back from the front of the roof at the 6” mark because of the curvature of the roof.
8. The three center lights will be placed at the 4” mark from the front of the roof.
9. From the left and right edge of the roof the left and right lights are set at 5 3/8” to the center of the light and 4 5/8” to the rear hole.
10.The center light was 26 ¾” from the left or right to the front center of the light. The back was 26” from left or right to the center.
11.Each light on the left and right of center light was 10 11/16” to the center light or the left or right lights center point. This gives you the equal spacing.
12.It is best once you get the measured points laid out to draw a straight line front to back for each light. This makes it much easier once you are ready to use the center punch.
13.Once you have everything laid out its time to check it 126 times to make sure its correct LOL
14.Time to lower the headliner, fairly easy. You will need a 10mm for the front grab handles and a 8mm for the sun visors and a T-25 for the sun visor catches.
15.I didn’t take anything else loose because that was enough room to gain access to the wiring.
16.Also check underneath the headliner to make sure you aren’t going to hit any wires. I had to disconnect the left side GPS antenna wire because one hole would be close to it. It goes back in the same place after the drilling is done.
17.Align each light with its respective layout marks and use a center punch to mark it location
18.Measure back 2” from the front of each mounting screw to establish the wiring location. Center punch this location as well.
19.Use a 1/8” drill bit for all 15 holes. The two screw holes for each light and the wiring hole as a guide for the larger ½” bit.
20.Swap to the ½” bit and drill the 5 wiring holes.
21.Remove the tape and any metal shavings. Make sure the surface is very clean.
22.Place each light in its location and connect the wiring and verify they all are plugged in correctly. Some trucks have a wiring harness for the factory clearance lights but mine did not for some reason so I ran the power wire to the driver side to connect to the clearance light output at the fuse box F79 location.
23.Place a good bead of the silicone on the bottom of the light
24.Take your time when tightening the screws because they can strip and will if you are using a drill and going too fast.
25.That’s pretty much it..

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5943.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5944.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5945.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5947.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5957.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5958.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5960.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5963.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...C_3227_HDR.jpg

Nice work!! Excellent write up too.

Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bamafire

So I ordered a set of the Recon Clearance lights (264146BK) about a year ago and have been hesitating on installing them because of the fact I have to drill through the roof and it didn't come with very good instructions or a diagram at all.

1. Make sure you have everything you need:
1.1. All the lights and wiring harness are intact and not missing or broken
1.2. 1/8” and 1/2” drill bits and drill
1.3. T-25 bit
1.4. 8mm and 10mm sockets
1.5. Center punch
1.6. Measuring tape (a fabric measuring tape is best because its flexible)
1.7. Masking or painters tape
1.8. Pencil so you can erase and move lines if needed
1.9. The screws that came with it were kind of soft and silver and I wanted black. Lowes has the following: Hillman 10x1-1/4” Black Chromate sheet metal screws. Product # 884861 and you will need 10.
1.10.The kit came with rubber washers but they can deformed once you tighten them down. Lowes has the following: Hillman Black Flat Washer #6. Product # 885806 and you will need 10 of these also.
1.11.Silicone is a MUST! Because my truck is black I used DAP Dynaflex 230 Black silicone Lowes product # 553860
2. Clean, dry and tape the front part of the roof where the lights will be installed
3. Measure up 4” from the front edge of the roof and make a continuous line following the curve of metal all the way to the other side. (see pictures)
4. Do the same at 6”
5. Refer to the pictures below for the layout I used. You can change any measurements if you would like but these provided will get you five lights that have an equal distance between each. Some people like putting the three center lights closer together than the two outside but I really think that looks off.
6. The following are for a 4^thGen 2014 Mega cab with a sunroof. Likely if you are close to this model the measurements will be the same but please check very carefully before drilling.
7. The far left and right lights need to be set back from the front of the roof at the 6” mark because of the curvature of the roof.
8. The three center lights will be placed at the 4” mark from the front of the roof.
9. From the left and right edge of the roof the left and right lights are set at 5 3/8” to the center of the light and 4 5/8” to the rear hole.
10.The center light was 26 ¾” from the left or right to the front center of the light. The back was 26” from left or right to the center.
11.Each light on the left and right of center light was 10 11/16” to the center light or the left or right lights center point. This gives you the equal spacing.
12.It is best once you get the measured points laid out to draw a straight line front to back for each light. This makes it much easier once you are ready to use the center punch.
13.Once you have everything laid out its time to check it 126 times to make sure its correct LOL
14.Time to lower the headliner, fairly easy. You will need a 10mm for the front grab handles and a 8mm for the sun visors and a T-25 for the sun visor catches.
15.I didn’t take anything else loose because that was enough room to gain access to the wiring.
16.Also check underneath the headliner to make sure you aren’t going to hit any wires. I had to disconnect the left side GPS antenna wire because one hole would be close to it. It goes back in the same place after the drilling is done.
17.Align each light with its respective layout marks and use a center punch to mark it location
18.Measure back 2” from the front of each mounting screw to establish the wiring location. Center punch this location as well.
19.Use a 1/8” drill bit for all 15 holes. The two screw holes for each light and the wiring hole as a guide for the larger ½” bit.
20.Swap to the ½” bit and drill the 5 wiring holes.
21.Remove the tape and any metal shavings. Make sure the surface is very clean.
22.Place each light in its location and connect the wiring and verify they all are plugged in correctly. Some trucks have a wiring harness for the factory clearance lights but mine did not for some reason so I ran the power wire to the driver side to connect to the clearance light output at the fuse box F79 location.
23.Place a good bead of the silicone on the bottom of the light
24.Take your time when tightening the screws because they can strip and will if you are using a drill and going too fast.
25.That’s pretty much it..

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5943.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5944.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5945.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5947.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5957.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5958.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5960.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5963.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...C_3227_HDR.jpg

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Nice job and good photos and instructions :rockon:

Will you come do mine? I don’t want to drill holes in my perfect roof either


2017 Ram 3500 Laramie Crew Cab Short Bed w Gooseneck towing prep/Full Metal Jacket spray in Bed liner/TruXedo low profile bed cover

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bamafire

So I ordered a set of the Recon Clearance lights (264146BK) about a year ago and have been hesitating on installing them because of the fact I have to drill through the roof and it didn't come with very good instructions or a diagram at all.

1. Make sure you have everything you need:
1.1. All the lights and wiring harness are intact and not missing or broken
1.2. 1/8” and 1/2” drill bits and drill
1.3. T-25 bit
1.4. 8mm and 10mm sockets
1.5. Center punch
1.6. Measuring tape (a fabric measuring tape is best because its flexible)
1.7. Masking or painters tape
1.8. Pencil so you can erase and move lines if needed
1.9. The screws that came with it were kind of soft and silver and I wanted black. Lowes has the following: Hillman 10x1-1/4” Black Chromate sheet metal screws. Product # 884861 and you will need 10.
1.10.The kit came with rubber washers but they can deformed once you tighten them down. Lowes has the following: Hillman Black Flat Washer #6. Product # 885806 and you will need 10 of these also.
1.11.Silicone is a MUST! Because my truck is black I used DAP Dynaflex 230 Black silicone Lowes product # 553860
2. Clean, dry and tape the front part of the roof where the lights will be installed
3. Measure up 4” from the front edge of the roof and make a continuous line following the curve of metal all the way to the other side. (see pictures)
4. Do the same at 6”
5. Refer to the pictures below for the layout I used. You can change any measurements if you would like but these provided will get you five lights that have an equal distance between each. Some people like putting the three center lights closer together than the two outside but I really think that looks off.
6. The following are for a 4^thGen 2014 Mega cab with a sunroof. Likely if you are close to this model the measurements will be the same but please check very carefully before drilling.
7. The far left and right lights need to be set back from the front of the roof at the 6” mark because of the curvature of the roof.
8. The three center lights will be placed at the 4” mark from the front of the roof.
9. From the left and right edge of the roof the left and right lights are set at 5 3/8” to the center of the light and 4 5/8” to the rear hole.
10.The center light was 26 ¾” from the left or right to the front center of the light. The back was 26” from left or right to the center.
11.Each light on the left and right of center light was 10 11/16” to the center light or the left or right lights center point. This gives you the equal spacing.
12.It is best once you get the measured points laid out to draw a straight line front to back for each light. This makes it much easier once you are ready to use the center punch.
13.Once you have everything laid out its time to check it 126 times to make sure its correct LOL
14.Time to lower the headliner, fairly easy. You will need a 10mm for the front grab handles and a 8mm for the sun visors and a T-25 for the sun visor catches.
15.I didn’t take anything else loose because that was enough room to gain access to the wiring.
16.Also check underneath the headliner to make sure you aren’t going to hit any wires. I had to disconnect the left side GPS antenna wire because one hole would be close to it. It goes back in the same place after the drilling is done.
17.Align each light with its respective layout marks and use a center punch to mark it location
18.Measure back 2” from the front of each mounting screw to establish the wiring location. Center punch this location as well.
19.Use a 1/8” drill bit for all 15 holes. The two screw holes for each light and the wiring hole as a guide for the larger ½” bit.
20.Swap to the ½” bit and drill the 5 wiring holes.
21.Remove the tape and any metal shavings. Make sure the surface is very clean.
22.Place each light in its location and connect the wiring and verify they all are plugged in correctly. Some trucks have a wiring harness for the factory clearance lights but mine did not for some reason so I ran the power wire to the driver side to connect to the clearance light output at the fuse box F79 location.
23.Place a good bead of the silicone on the bottom of the light
24.Take your time when tightening the screws because they can strip and will if you are using a drill and going too fast.
25.That’s pretty much it..

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5943.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5944.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5945.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5947.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5957.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5958.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5960.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...z/IMG_5963.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...C_3227_HDR.jpg

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Nice. That was my problem too when it came to drilling holes in my roofhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...05ed622648.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fd9069615b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...de7a262c5f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e8098e5766.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great write up! [emoji4]

Thanks for sharing.


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Great write-up, nice work and thanks for sharing!

Very detailed instructions. Thank you for going through the trouble. That will definitely save someone else some time in the future. Looks good! It amazes me that the people that design these things don't think about details like black screws on a black mounting surface next to smoked lenses. I like the amount of times you checked everything, awesome . Everyone has their number, I think mine"s a kagillion :rofl:

@bamafire looks good man some very tedious stuff and a bunch of measuring. You would think when ordering things like this they would send you a template to tape to the roof so you know where to drill. Measure a million times. And then another million times. Say a little prayer then drill:rofl:

subscribed

After my F350 roof rotting out due to those $#*£Ing lights, I would NEVER consider those things! Just my two cents

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Joeyvco

After my F350 roof rotting out due to those $#*£Ing lights, I would NEVER consider those things! Just my two cents

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Your roof didnt rot out because of those lights. Your roof rotted out because it was a ford:rofl: LOL I'm just playin. If you do it right the bare metal from drilling will never see moisture so it wont rot.

We don’t like the F word around here ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dwelsh

Your roof didnt rot out because of those lights. Your roof rotted out because it was a ford:rofl: LOL I'm just playin. If you do it right the bare metal from drilling will never see moisture so it wont rot.

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They were factory, not add on’s, far as I know. I bought the truck used & they were on it. Again, I would never cut or drill a hole in a perfectly good roof of anything.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Joeyvco

They were factory, not add on’s, far as I know. I bought the truck used & they were on it. Again, I would never cut or drill a hole in a perfectly good roof of anything.

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The reason i dont have satelite TV at my house LOL.

You nuts bro :screwloose:

Nice job.
I did this same project years ago on an 02 Ford. Same Recon lights. Their instructios were very poor. They said to drill a 7/8" hole for just 2 tiny wires through. No way I'm doing that. Looked awesome when done, like yours do.

I did an install on my 07 mega. I had issues of the bulbs burning out very quickly. I got new one to replace then next would go. They looked great until one bulb would go. Hope you don’t have that issue. Great write up!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlackedOut6.7

I did an install on my 07 mega. I had issues of the bulbs burning out very quickly. I got new one to replace then next would go. They looked great until one bulb would go. Hope you don’t have that issue. Great write up!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Try LED. I’ve had mine for years. Recob led lights.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by david3gen

Try LED. I’ve had mine for years. Recob led lights.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I no longer have that truck. I have a new baby!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dwelsh

Your roof didnt rot out because of those lights. Your roof rotted out because it was a ford:rofl: LOL I'm just playin. If you do it right the bare metal from drilling will never see moisture so it wont rot.

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That’s a fact :rofl::rofl:

So I just did the Mopar kit cab lights on my truck the other day. Found a great youtube video about it (link below). I originally went with the same mentality as the guy in the video and didn't use any silicone. Water test instantly showed leaking on the drivers side screws. Tightened them down, still leaked. Replaced the plastic washers with metal washers recommended here. Still leaked. Replaced those washers with some faucet rubber O-rings, and added some Adhesive Silicone to all the screw tops. No leaks....yet...

This video is really good at showing how to drop the headliner (way easier than you'd think), and highly recommend!

Now that my silicone on the screws is dry, I really wish I had run a bead of silicone around the entire bottom of the rubber though, driving through some heavy rain last night I found myself paranoid-ly thinking more about the headliner getting wet than getting myself home!

We'll see how it holds up. Worst case scenario, they do leak and then I'll pop them all up to run a bead around the entire bottom of the light.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhyY1i5TojY&t=1243s