Re: Getting kinda hot....
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ELECTRONICLY
CONTOLLED VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
NOISE
NOTE: It is normal for fan noise to be louder (roaring)
when:
² Fan duty cycle high. This may occur when ambient
(outside air temperature) is very high.
² Engine loads and temperatures are high such as
when towing a trailer.
² Cool silicone fluid within the fan drive unit is
being redistributed back to its normal disengaged
(warm) position. This can occur during the first 15
seconds to one minute after engine start-up on a cold
engine.
LEAKS
Viscous fan drive operation is not affected by small
oil stains near the drive bearing. If leakage appears
excessive, replace the fan drive unit.
ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED VISCOUS DRIVE
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag (the
fan blades will revolve more than five turns when
spun by hand), replace the fan drive. This spin test
must be performed when the engine is cool.
For the following test, the cooling system must be
in good condition. It also will ensure against excessively
high coolant temperature.
The Electronic Viscous Fan drive can be tested
using the DRB III scan tool.
(1) Set the parking brake and verify the transmission
is in park or neutral.
(2) Stat and allow engine to reach normal operating
termeratures.
(3) With engine idling, connect the DRB III and
select appropraite model year and engine option.
(4) Lacate and select actuator tests, then select
PWM Viscous Fan.
(5) Monitor fan speed and duty cycle; verify that
the fan speed increments are proportional to the duty
cycle precentage during the actuation event.
CAUTION: Some engines equipped with serpentine
drive belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous
fan drives. They are marked with the word
REVERSE to designate their usage. Installation of
the wrong fan or viscous fan drive can result in
engine overheating.
CAUTION: If the viscous fan drive is replaced
because of mechanical damage, the cooling fan
blades should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue
cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could
have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan
blade assembly if any of these conditions are
Re: Getting kinda hot....
Ok what if u don't have a DRB III? LOL
Re: Getting kinda hot....
I dunno. Could be backwards compatible
Re: Getting kinda hot....
I mean. I don't have any scanners LOL
Re: Getting kinda hot....
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Boostf3d_TSi
I mean. I don't have any scanners LOL
If you were closer. . . . .
Re: Getting kinda hot....
LOL. Well can I just disconnect fan plug and check for power? Would adding an electric fan to the front side of the condensers help too?
Just curious, has anyone deleted the viscous fan and gone only electrical? Is it possible?
Re: Getting kinda hot....
Someone mentioned tps sensors too, how would I check or rule out that? And if I needed one where would I get one for an 09?
Re: Getting kinda hot....
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Boostf3d_TSi
LOL. Well can I just disconnect fan plug and check for power? Would adding an electric fan to the front side of the condensers help too?
Just curious, has anyone deleted the viscous fan and gone only electrical? Is it possible?
You don't want to go poking around in that plug. You could damage the ECM. You can't fit any fans behind the grill. Not enough depth. But you could just go over to Flexalite fans. I've been using them for years. Come in real handy when is stop and go traffic on a 100 degree day. Tie them into the A/C and you'll be really nice and cool.
There was a guy on eBay that was selling them as returns for like half the price. I bought one for my truck from him 3 years ago.
I like the Flex-a-Lite because you take the fan and shroud out. Makes all kinds of room and changing the belt is a snap
Re: Getting kinda hot....
So it'd only work with the actual on or does it get the coolant temp signal that way? And where and how much for one?
Re: Getting kinda hot....
It includes a controller with multiple inputs. A T Stat get stuck through the coils in the rad. You have a manual over ride option, and an AC connection. The controller ramps the start up so it's doesn't just slam on. It only comes on as needed. I think I picked up about 1/2 MPG too. It's more efficient than the belt driven. It's rated to 16K pounds towing. It's a stainless shroud and 2 really big motors. Brand new they sell for like 650. This is my third truck with them. I had two problems. the fuse holder in my 04 melted. Replaced it with a circuit breaker. As long as I kept moving I was good. Last year in this truck I had 10K in tow on a back road that was about 6% and rolled all over the place. I couldn't get any speed for about 4 miles. I switched to manual, but I did get up to 220. stopped, waited a few minutes, came right down. A very rare case
Did you check the clutch out like the instructions said?