2015 RAM 2500 Cummins 6.7L - Sick Truck?

Hi, all.

I hope this isn't too detailed, but here it goes.

2015 RAM 2500 DRD delete and tune since a couple of years ago.

4 months ago, 5th and 6th gear gave up the ghost.

I'm saving for a Revmax tranny.

In the meantime, I've been trying to run it and even drive it, some keeping it under 5th gear.

No issues; however, the batteries die if I don't run or charge it for a week or so.

I've been busy on a new job and let the batteries get so low I can't start it.

No problem, right?

I put the smart charge on and let it go for a few hours.

I had to do that once before.

Batteries are up to about 70%, so I start it up, then unplug the charger.

Let it warm up a bit and go to take off.

This is where the fun starts.

A huge cloud of black smoke wafts over the truck, and it won't go.

More fuel, still won't go. Damn.

Put it in the park again and run the throttle up.

More black smoke and won't go about ~1,200 rpm.

Dammit!

Go to the MM3 and get the following codes. (You can ignore the tranny related codes. Those were there already.)

Attachment 15529

Attachment 15530

Clear the codes.

Start it up again, and black smoke.

Reread the codes, and the only one that comes back is the P003A code:

Attachment 15531

Now for the question (if you haven't already guessed it).

The black smoke is ceundoubtedlyelated to the turbo actuator code.

Could it be due to the low batteries or charging?

Any way to clear that, or do I need a new actuator?

Thanks!

-Scot

Can you tell me what the actual vs. desired is on the vein position are?

If you have one battery, it's best to get 2 at the same time.

The actuator is electronically driven when being commanded to do so,

My hunch, given that the batteries are not fully charged and or weak\bad, I would buy two new ones.

If the load test proves, they are bad.

Then view the Actual vs. desired with the new bats in place.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Corkey

Can you tell me what the actual vs. desired is on the vein position are?

If you have one battery, it's best to get 2 at the same time.

The actuator is electronically driven when being commanded to do so,

My hunch, given that the batteries are not fully charged and or weak\bad, I would buy two new ones.

If the load test proves, they are bad.

Then view the Actual vs. desired with the new bats in place.

---

Thanks for the quick jump in!

How can I tell actual vs. desired?

Will the MM3 tell me that?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scatlin

Thanks for the quick jump in!

How can I tell actual vs. desired?

Will the MM3 tell me that?

---

Agree; your issues are most likely due to low battery voltage.

Load-test the batteries individually and replace them as a pair.

I have attached some information on the P003A code in case.

You can monitor the VGT actual and desired PIDs on your MM3 and log them to plot on a graph if necessary.

I would start with the low voltage issue first.

Agree with the above posts; low batteries will cause various issues, aka codes.

Ask me how I know, and even if your charges say 100 percent doesn't mean you don't have dead or weak cells in the battery.

Thanks for all of the helpful replies.

I'm out of town for the week, but I will spring for two new batteries when I return.

They are both about five years old, anyhow.

Fingers crossed.